Crafts

So you’ve just completed a really nice piece of beadwork, either on or off a bead loom, and you’re now faced with the problem of how to turn it into a finished bracelet you can proudly wear.

You’ll find there are a ton of helpful tutorials on how to set up and use a bead loom but when it comes to finishing your beadwork and adding a clasp, there’s really not much out there to help you.

This easy to follow guide is here to take you through the finishing process, and show you how to add a fastening, whether your beadwork is created on or off-loom.

Table of Contents

• Adding a Crimp Clasp or Ribbon End to a Bead Loom Bracelet (The glue and cut method).
• Adding a Slide, Toggle, Button or Bead Clasps to an On or Off Loom Bracelet
  • Sewing in Your Weft and Warp Threads
  • How to Add a Toggle Clasp, Bead Clasp, or Magnetic Clasp

Notes:

The bead fastening will measure approximately 1 1/4″ in length. The toggle clasp will measure approx 1 1/2″. For a ribbon clasp, you should measure your clasp and adjust your bracelet length accordingly.

Bead Loom Bracelets

If you have the Ricks bead loom, we featured in our bead loom guide, you find you’ll only have two warp threads to deal with at the end of your project.

With most looms, however, you will have several warp threads at each end of your beadwork – as well as the weft thread (that’s the one your seed beads were threaded on to).

In this section, we’ll look at how to add a ribbon crimp to finish your beadwork.

Adding a Crimp Clasp or Ribbon End to a Bead Loom Bracelet

OK, I have to be honest, this method is not one of my favorites. To be frank, it’s a bit messy and fiddly – mostly because it involves glue.

But also, because it’s really easy to accidentally dent the clasp when you close it – and you don’t really get a second shot if you don’t place it exactly straight and where it needs to be.

If you go for this method I strongly recommend you choose a good quality crimp or at least one you like enough to really want to wear as part of your bracelet or necklace.

The cheap findings don’t do it for me. They tend to let your work down a bit and a beautiful piece of beadwork can so easily be spoiled by the wrong clasp.

That said, if you find a pretty clasp and you’re feeling confident you can do a good job, the process (in theory) is pretty straight forward.

For this method, start with your beadwork still on the loom.

Your thread will be exiting the last bead from the left.

Here’s what to do:

• Starting on the next row following your final row of beads, weave your thread in and out of your warp threads as if you were weaving a tapestry.
• Continue until you have approximately 1 cm of woven tapestry. Backstitch several times for extra security and then tie-off and cut your thread.
• Now add a thin layer of beading adhesive over the woven area, leaving it overnight to set.
• You can then trim the warp threads close to the woven/glued area and you are ready to add your crimp clasp to cover the entire area.

If you have Julia’s Beadalon Jewel Loom be careful when you cut the beadwork from the loom because the loom is under tension.

A nice touch is to add a small strip of ribbon or recycled sari over your woven area before gently and evenly closing the crimp over the end.

Toggle Clasps, Bead Clasps, and Magnetic Clasps for On or Off Loom Bracelets

For each of the following methods, you will need to sew in your threads first.

This will give you a neat stip of woven beadwork ready to add virtually any clasp of your choice.

In this section, we’ll take you through how to sew in all your threads, and then we’ll look at some options for adding different types of clasps – including my personal favorite, the beaded clasp you can see in the photo above.

How to Sew In Your Threads

Cut or remove your beadwork from your loom leaving enough on your warp threads to sew in.

And remember if you have Julia’s Beadalon Jewel Loom, take care when you cutting the beadwork from the loom – the loom is under tension and it can release with quite a snap.

Sewing in Your Weft Thread

Your thread will be exiting from the left side.

Here’s what to do:

• Sew back up through a couple of beads in the row above.
• Now, sew up to the previous row changing direction and tie a half hitch knot before continuing along the row and up to the row before that.
• Continue doing this for a few rows before tying off your thread. Go through a few more beads before cutting or burning off your thread with a thread burner close to the last bead you exit.

There is no specific path you need to take. Just remember to follow the natural path of your beadwork so your thread virtually disappears.

Sew In Your Warp Threads

Here’s what to do:

• Thread your beading needle onto the first warp thread.
• Sew into the next bead up, on the previous row, and continue to sew through your beadwork following the natural path of your beads. Tie a couple of half hitch knots here and there. Continue through the next few beads and then cut the thread close to the last bead you exited from.
• Repeat the process until all your warp thread are sewn in.

Tried to avoid going over the same path more than a couple of times or the thread will build up and you will no longer be able to get your needle through.

You may need to use a finer needle (from a size 10 to a size 12).

You are now ready to add a clasp.

How to Add a Toggle Clasp, Bead Clasp, or Magnetic Clasp

Adding a bead, toggle, or magnetic clasp is easy, and once you get the idea, the process is very similar for whichever fastening you choose.

For off-loom beadwork, you can use any beading thread you have still left on your needle (providing you have about 12″ left). Just make sure you thread exits where you want to add your fastening.

Alternatively, you can start a new thread. For bead loom bracelets, you will need to add a new thread.

Here’s what to do:

• Add a new thread to your beadwork several rows up and work your way down to the bottom row.
• Exiting the bead where you want your fastening to begin, Pick up 7x 11/0 Miyuki seed beads and 1x Swarovski crystal round bead. Size 8 is probably better though I used a size 6 for mine.
• Pick up 3x 15/0 Miyuki seed beads to make a picot.
• Sew back through the Swarovski crystal round bead and then pick up 7 more 11/0 Miyuki seed beads.
• Reinforce the fastening by going round the path again.
• Now reinforce the connection between the bracelet and fastening as shown in the center illustration above.

To make the loop enclosure for the opposite end, the process is very similar.

However, you will need to test how many beads you need in order to (only just) allow the Swarovski crystal bead to pass through the loop.

Add 5x 11/0 seed beads. Then add either a 3mm fire polish or a 3 or 4 mm Swarovski bicone crystal before creating a loop of around 16 or 17 11/0 beads (depending on your brand of beads and tension).

The silver toggle clasp was added in a similar way or you could choose a magnet fastening for this method too.

I’ve also added a bead and loop closure to my beaded lacy necklace tutorial which you may find helpful.

So there you have it. It’s easier than you think. And if you made it this far, one thing I really do recommend for beadwork is to get yourself a good craft light so you can properly see what you are doing – especially one with a magnifying glass. That way you’ll cut down on mistakes or be able to spot any more easily and backtrack before you’ve gone too far.

Check out our reading room for beading inspiration.

If you want a cheap kit so you can dabble in the art of wood-burning, you’ll find a ton of them out there. All pretty much the same – with just slight variations in the number and type of accessories, you get with them. They’re cheap because the wood burner is basically a repurposed soldering iron. And soldering irons don’t cost much to make.

It’s not necessarily a bad idea to get one if you’re a complete beginner. They will let you try out a bunch of different techniques. But sooner or later you’re going to want something that will let you really get into the craft and explore your potential.

So whether you want to just have a go or really master the craft, I’ve done all the hard work and research for you to find the best wood-burning kit out there depending on your criteria.

Updated January 2022

Here are reviews of my recommendations:

What We Think	Brand	Product
Seriously Good	TRUArt Stage 2 Single Pen Professional Woodburning Detailer
A Good Choice for Artists	Professional Wood Burning Kit, TEKCHIC Pro1
A Budget Friendly Kit for Beginners	PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit
Smoke Extractor for Your Kit	KOTTO Woodburning Smoke Extractor

Table of Contents.

• Our Top Picks
• Smoke Extractors | Why You Need One
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Other Wood Burning Kits We’ve Reviewed

Seriously Good: TRUArt Stage 2 Single Pen Professional Woodburning Detailer

It doesn’t have lots of different types of tips like the cheap kits.

But that’s not actually a downside because you’ll be able to use the set of 40 wire tips it comes with for a wide variety of applications. Much like the pencils and brushes you use for drawing and painting.

It also comes with 5 assorted files, pen holder, pliers and tweezers and a brush.

This kit doesn’t have any stamp tips, because you won’t be using stamps as an artist. You’ll be drawing things yourself, you see. That’s the difference in the focus of this kit.

Our top choice is the single pen version. But we have to say, it would be worth going for the two-pen version if you can. That way you’ll be able to have the two tips you’re using most often for your project at hand.

You can basically swap between them – without having any wait time for one tip to cool down before being swapped and then swapped back when you need it. This will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.

You get a good selection of quality wire tips in this kit. Wire tips are much better than stamp tools – or the various solid-shaped tips you get with the cheaper kits.

They’re designed for you to draw with and add your own detail – unlike those that have chiseled ends in various shapes that make a standard – pre-shaped mark for you.

You’ll be able to work with these tips in a way that’s not unlike the way you would use your pencils and brushes in traditional artwork.

And you can make minute heat adjustments with the digital control to easily achieve depth and shading to your work.

What We Like:

• Cooler to the Touch, Ergonomically-Shaped Pyrography Pen | The pen has a heat-resistant rubberized wrap. That means will remain cool enough for you to hold the pen much closer to the heated tip, than other brands on the market. Even for long periods. The pen is also more oval-shaped than some of the chunkier round-shaped pens out there. That means it will fit more naturally in your hand, allowing for greater control and a steadier hand.
• Good Heat control and a Fast Heat-Up Time | The Kit comes with a very accurate 60W voltage dial. This means you can control the temperature and therefore the amount of burn to get the perfect mark. The tips heat up super fast which will also help speed up your workflow. They do obviously take longer to cool than heat up. However, they still cool faster than the thicker solid tips of the cheaper kits. And if you go for the 2 pen set, you won’t have to interrupt your workflow while you wait for the tips to cool.
• Professional Wood Burning Kit | TRUArt are a company that just specializes in wood-burning kits, spare parts, and accessories. You know with them you are getting a professional artist quality product. If you require any extras, such as additional tips, spare parts, or even an extra pen, you will find that they’re all easily available to buy.
• Carry Case| Most other kits don’t come with a carry case. This might seem like a no big deal detail but you’ll want to look after your equipment. Therefore, having the correct size case that you can put everything away into when you’ve finished using your kit is both helpful and sensible.

A Good Choice for Artists: Professional Wood Burning Kit, TEKCHIC Pro1

It also comes with two pyrography pens which make swapping between nibs so much easier and faster than waiting for one pen to heat up and cool down.

Because different types of wood burn more or less easily the ability to accurately adjust the temperature of the pen could make all the difference to mark the pen makes. Unlike the PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit and indeed all the cheaper kits out there the TEKCHIC Pro1 has a 30W voltage dial. In comparison with the TRUArt 2 it’s about half the wattage but the pen still reaches 700 degrees at its highest which is more than hot enough. The actually glows molten red hot!

Cheaper kits do tend to have temperature control but it’s a standard, tiny (and fiddly) dial on the side of the pen itself.

What We Like:

• Good Accessories | 20 Different wire tips, with ball tips that make drawing accurately a breeze. The kit also comes with 2 tool stands, sponges, a screwdriver, 2 kinds of wood to get you started plus a carry case.
• Dual Wood Burner | By its nature, wood-burning takes longer than drawing by hand with a pencil. Having two pens increases your workflow which would otherwise be slowed further by the time it takes for a single pen to heat up and cool down.

Buying Factors to Consider:

The kit doesn’t come with the array of extras that the PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit or others like it. So beginners or people who don’t want to draw freehand might prefer to skip this one and go for the cheaper option below. But for anyone who enjoys drawing this is a good mid-price range option.

Budget-Friendly Kit for Beginners: PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit

As we’ve mentioned, these pyrography pens are pretty much-repurposed soldering irons and can even be used as such.

That’s not to say they’re not good for wood burning. They may be very basic – you plug ’em in, they get extremely hot pretty quickly, hot enough to make decorative marks on wood and with all the different tips you can attach to them, you can get some great results.

You may be more creative than artistic. In this case, you’ll find having lots of stamps and stencils useful.

Just bear in mind that unless the stencils are metal, and with the cheaper kits they mostly aren’t, you should just use them to trace your design onto the wood. The reason is you’ll melt the plastic if you use the pen directly on them.

If you lean more towards the artistic side or you like the artist’s sketch look and want to have a go at drawing, you should look for a kit that has a good selection of pencil-shaped tips.

The 110 Piece Wood Burning Kit shown above left has quite a few of those but it also has several stamp tools too.

In our opinion it’s a good all-round kit with a bit of everything in it.

One thing we really like about this kit is that it does have temperature control. This is something you’ll find useful in order to achieve the right amount of burn for the type of wood you are using and the type of mark you are trying to make. A word of caution though, like all the kits in this low price range, the controls are a bit fiddly and not as accurate or sensitive as the digitally controlled ones you get with the more professional pens.

These pens also tend to get hot so they aren’t ideal for using over prolonged periods. Another big plus point about this kit is that it comes with heatproof gloves. If you choose a similar kit that comes with different accessories, you might find a heatproof glove a good idea.

Not a criticism of this kit in particular but I do need to point out that these cheaper pyrography pens are less efficient. They tend to take longer to heat up and longer to cool down than our top choice.

This will, unfortunately, slow your workflow down considerably and you’ll need to be patient while you’re waiting for the tip to cool down enough to swap it.

What We Like:

• Lots of Tips and Accessories | This makes them ideal for experimenting with. You’ll be able to find your own style and learn what works for you so you can achieve something to be proud of. Not only that but if you find a good tutorial or have a project in mind you want to create, chances are, you’ll already have everything you need in one of these kits to go ahead and make it.
• They’re Super Cheap | Most of these kits are around the $20 mark which makes them worth going for, even if you’re not sure whether you’ll like your new hobby or not. In any case, even if you don’t commit to wood-burning and go on to create amazing and stunning masterpieces, you’ll certainly get your $20 worth of fun out of one.

Buying Factors to Consider:

• Pyrography Pen Can Get Hot | These pens as we’ve discussed are primarily soldering pens. They’re pretty cheap and not that well insulated. This means they can get uncomfortably hot if you’re using them for a long period of time. If you want to complete large projects or you think you’ll be using the pen quite a lot you should consider going for a professional kit like our best choice

Smoke Extractors | Why You Need One

However, pleasant the smell of wood smoke is, it’s not good for you.

And once you get totally absorbed in a project, you’ll forget that the air around you is getting smokier and more unhealthy by the minute.

It’s only sensible to get yourself a fume exhaust rather than to risk any short or long term health problems from something that should be relaxing and enjoyable enough to be actually good for you.

This one by KOTTO isn’t expensive it will sit happily next to you on your craft table and it’s designed specifically for all types of wood-burning projects.

Alternative Wood Burning Kits:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks. But they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

I’ve been on the hunt for the ultimate craft light for what feels like an eternity. I’ve tried all the different options, from anglepoises to flimsy clip-on lamps to bulky floor lamps that take up half my studio. I’ve even dabbled in those trendy “daylight” bulbs that promise to give you the same lighting as the outdoors, but all they did was give me a headache. Having had enough of subpar craft lighting, I was ready to find the one that truly reignited my passion for crafting. That’s why I decided to embark on a mission to find the best craft light out there.

In this quick, straight-to-the-point guide I will tell you exactly what to look for when choosing a craft light for whatever it is you love to create.

Ultimately I chose the Neatfi XL Bifocals magnifying light – a purchase I’m especially pleased with. It has made the world of difference for me. I’d even go so far as to say it’s taken my craft skills to the next level. Now I can really see what I’m doing up close in detail (thanks to the magnifier), even if it’s the only light source in the room. The photo below was taken at night in a totally dark room of my Neatfi Bifocals magnifying light.

Choose a good craft light and it won’t matter how poor your surrounding lighting conditions are. Evening or late-night crafting projects are as easy (and eye-strain-free) as working in daylight.

	Neatfi XL Bifocals
	Neatfi Bifocals magnifying light
	Neatfi XL Craft Light
	Dimunt LED Floor Lamp

Extra Contents:

• Handy Diopter Magnification Converter
• Other Worthy Mentions

And the bifocal feature is a total bonus, with the 5 Diopter lens for distant vision and the 20 Diopter lens for close-up work.

But what really sold me was the 1,600 lumens of bright, glare-free light. It’s perfect for reading small prints or working on delicate projects, and the color temperature of 5600K-6000K is just right. Plus, it’ll last up to 100,000 hours and doesn’t get hot, which is a major plus.

And the dimmable feature is a godsend. I can adjust the brightness level by 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% depending on my task, which is a must-have for anyone looking for the perfect lighting for various projects. Plus, it comes with a 3-year warranty, so you know you are covered. All in all, I’d say this is the best craft light I’ve come across.

Pros:

• Extra large 7″ wide lens provides even spread of bright light over a large area
• Bifocal feature with 5 Diopter lens for distant vision and 20 Diopter lens for close-up work
• 1,600 lumens of bright, glare-free light ideal for reading small prints or working on delicate projects
• Color temperature of 5600K-6000K is just right
• Dimmable feature allows for adjustable brightness levels
• Lasts up to 100,000 hours and doesn’t get hot
• Comes with a 3-year warranty

Cons:

• More expensive than the next option, but you get what you pay for and it’s a better light.
• Maybe more than you actually need.

If you find a cheaper craft light that looks just as good, chances are the lumens, or brightness, just won’t be enough.

You’ll notice that this one has a clamp rather than a standard base. Clamps are ideal if you have a desk that you can clamp it to – but don’t worry if you don’t, you can easily get a compatible mounting bracket that will allow you to fix it flush to your desktop or even to a wall.

As you can see in the photo below, this light is designed for maximum flexibility. The clamp, or other means of fixing it, means you can pull it into the exact position you need and it will stay put. There’s no chance of it toppling over onto your work.

The 5-inch, 5-diopter magnifier, will make everything 225% larger for you. It’s ideal for detailed work, but if you need to zoom in further – miniature/model painters, knitters, crocheters, and beaders will love the built-in 20 diopter spot lens which will zoom in by 6x, which means the smallest of details will look 600% bigger.

The lamp’s also dimmable by pressing the power button you can adjust the brightness level to 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100%.

Though for most crafters this 5″ lens version is just perfect, I can crochet and knit – or rather see where to pick up my all too frequently dropped stitches, work on detailed hand-drawn illustrations, and work on my beadwork with ease, but if you really want to go bigger and even brighter, Neatfi XL Bifocals is the way to go.

Pros:

• High lumen count of 1,200
• Clamp or mounting bracket options for flexibility in placement
• 5-inch, 5-diopter magnifier and built-in 20 diopter spot lens for detailed work
• Dimmable with four brightness levels
• 7-inch lens version available with even higher lumen count of 1,600

Cons:

• May not be suitable depending on the type of craft you want to do

 A full three-year (3) warranty is included.

As with the Neatfi Bifocals Craft Light, the clamp can be replaced with a mounting bracket alternatively it can be converted to a floor light.

Pros:

• Extra-wide 20” shade provides good coverage for large workbenches or craft tables
• High lumen output of 2,200 lumens in 5600K-6000K daylight light is ideal for poor lighting conditions
• Dimmable from 100% to 75%, 50%, and 25% for adjustable brightness
• Can be turned off with a double click of the button
• Clamp can be replaced with a mounting bracket or converted to a floor light
• Designed to last for 20 years without a bulb change, and uses 80% less energy than a standard bulb
• Comes with a 3-year warranty

Cons:

• Doesn’t have a magnifier.
• Maybe larger than you need.

 A full three-year (3) warranty is included.

A control panel on the stem allows you to adjust the light from 100% right down to 10%, and you even have the option to change the lighting effect from a warm white to a cool white.

The gooseneck head is fully flexible allowing you to position the light precisely and there’s even a handy 60-minute timer to automatically switch the lamp off after one hour.

Pros:

• Only uses 15 watts LED, which is the equivalent of burning 100 watts of halogen.
• High Lumen Output with 1,000 lumens of light means it’s perfect for working in low light. The energy-saving light is designed to give you 50, 000+ hours of use, and save you up to 75% on your electricity bill -compared to the cost of using a standard light.
• Multiple Lighting Options

Cons:

• The lamp doesn’t have the lumen brightness that others have.

Diopter Magnification Converter

Diopter	Magnification
2	1.5X
3	1.5X
4	1.75X
5	2X
7	2.25X
8	2.75X
9	3.25X
20	6X

Other Ones We’ve Reviewed:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

There have been several promising but so far, small scientific studies indicating the effectiveness of using lavender to alleviate anxiety and improve sleep quality.

Whether you find yourself wound up in a tight knot at 3 a.m. wondering if you will ever be able to fall asleep normally again or you would just like to relax, unwind and enjoy the wonderfully soothing benefits that pure essential lavender oil has to offer, this natural lavender massage oil recipe is perfect to help you relax and melt away the stresses of the day.

It’s quick and very easy to make and best of all, it’s 100% natural with no nasty chemicals added!

Lavender essential oil, as with all essential oils, should never be applied to the skin undiluted. This 1% dilation recipe will give you the wonderfully relaxing sweet aroma of lavender, without being too overpowering.

You Will Need:

6 Drops of Pure Lavender Essential Oil – Steam Distilled see below for a guide to choosing your essential oils

• 1oz/30ml of Organic Sweet Almond Oil or Organic Jojoba Oil 
• 1oz/30ml Aromatherapy Cobalt Blue Glass Bottle for storing your Natural Lavender Massage Oil

Method

Now with a steady hand, add 6 drops of pure lavender essential oil to your carrier oil – and that is it! You now have a wonderfully sweet lavender massage oil ready to use. Store your oil in a cool place away from direct sunlight, or better still, keep it in the refrigerator.

Carefully fill one cobalt blue glass bottle with the carrier oil of your choice. I recommend Jojoba or Sweet Almond oil but there are others that would work equally well.

Jojoba it lighter than Sweet Almond and is rich in Vitamin E. Sweet Almond which is my favorite doesn’t smell of almonds, in case you were wondering but it is rich and deeply nourishing.

Make sure you don’t overfill the bottle. The best way to do this is to hold the glass bottle up in good light, you should then be able to just see through it enough to avoid overfilling.

Please note: you should always store your carrier oil in the refrigerator.

How do you know this is a 1% dilution?

This is easy to calculate. It would take 600 drops of essential oil to fill a 1oz or 30ml bottle and 1% of 600 drops is 6. To make a 2% dilution, add a total of 12 drops of pure lavender essential oil to your carrier oil. This will give you a much stronger scent which is suitable for smaller areas, such as your feet or wrists. Personally, I find this dilution is a little too strong for me.

How to Choose Your Lavender Essential Oil

Be cautious when buying essential oils, there are a lot of fakes and/or questionable selling techniques out there! 

Be cautious when buying essential oils, there are a lot of fakes and/or questionable selling techniques out there! 

Tisserand is a well known and trusted company. Robert Tisserand is well known, author, international speaker, and consultant on aromatherapy. Tisserand has a website that has clear and transparent information about their products and all of their essential oils are 100% pure organic, wildcrafted or ethically harvested.

Tisserand is the brand I have used many times over the years and the one I am using at the moment.

Tisserand is available in the US here, or for the US organic version, click here.

And if you are in the UK, it’s available here.

Firstly, always read the label. Choose your essential oil by its botanical name.

Don’t buy anything that doesn’t say 100% pure essential oil on the label. There are many cheap synthetic copies out there that are made mostly from petrochemicals.

The companies that make these synthetic copies, artificially reproduce the smell of the oil. 

Obviously, you don’t want these chemicals on your skin and you don’t want to breathe them in either. 

But also make sure the label doesn’t say anything like “blend” as it will already have been diluted and mixed with something else. 

In the case of Lavender Essential Oil, look for “Steam Distilled.” If you were buying citrus essential oils you would look for “Cold Pressed.”

Therapeutic Grade: There is no regulation what-so-ever that decides what is therapeutic and what isn’t.

So basically the word is meaningless. To be magnanimous you could say that the company is trying to convey their product is produced in a way to preserve its therapeutic benefits, but the words mean nothing on their own.

USDA Certification: The USDA do not regulate essential oils, if they did, it would be for food standards and these essential oils are NOT to be taken internally.

USDA Certification can, however, be applied to the growing conditions of the plant or flowers used to make the essential oil.

It should be noted that harvesting that takes place in countries other than the US would be unlikely to be awarded USDA Certification regardless of whether they are organically and ethically produced or not.

And finally, you would think that as long as you can spot a synthetic oil, the world of essential oils would be fairly free of controversy, but you would be wrong.

I will just say that personally, I would never recommend buying any product from an essential oil company that uses Multi-level Marketing (MLM) techniques.

While I have no reason to think that there is anything wrong with the essential oils these companies produce, please do not ever allow yourself to be pressured into paying to become a distributor, unless you want to turn all your friends and family into prospective customers and then have to try to convince them to become distributors too.

If you are interested in learning more about aromatherapy, Susan Burgess has a great little ebook with some easy to follow recipes to get you started.

View here.

Let’s face it, no one wants to see a limp, straggly, uneven pom pom. That’s just gonna bring everyone down. Pom poms should be adorable, round, fluffy balls of fun that’ll brighten up the dullest of days – and there’s a little secret to getting them to fluff up perfectly…

The secret is all in the trimming.

Not convinced? Why not have a go – following the steps below.

It’s actually so easy and super cheap to make perfect, fully fluffed pom poms every time. And it’s super fast too.

No doubt you’ll have already had a go at wrapping yarn around two donut-shaped pieces of card, at some point.

And if you do have the patience to thread your yarn through the hole every time, the donut method (the one without the slit) will give you a nice round fluffy pom pom every time. It’s pretty time consuming though, and you do have to cut the yarn first so it’ll fit through the hole, and that means you can easily get yourself into a tangle.

Cutting a slot in the card makes things much easier and quicker, but it’s tricky to keep your yarn from slipping off the card when it gets too near the opening – and you kinda get a lopsided pom pom.

By far the quickest and easiest method is to use a flat, rectangular-shaped, piece of card. Any card will do, but a simple toilet roll, folded in half, turns out to be absolutely perfect for a 2″ pom pom – and that’s just right size for a pom pom garland.

I used DK yarn for my pom poms. It’s just what I had leftover from another project, but you can pretty much use any yarn you like.

Just remember – if you use a thicker yarn you won’t need to wrap it quite as many times as mentioned below. Just as long as it looks similar to the photo shown in step 3, your pom pom should be plump, round, fluffy, and totally adorable.

Ok so let’s get started.

Materials List

For a Pom Pom:

• Yarn – DK, crochet, or any craft yarn
• Empty toilet roll
• 2 x 2″ card circles
• Scissors

For the Garland:

• Garden or craft string for threading your garland
• A yarn needle to thread your string through your pom poms
• Craft glue

For the Garland:

If you are threading your pom poms to make a garland. You can use any kind of craft string as long as it can be threaded through a yarn needle.

Tips:

Make sure you thread your string through the center of your pom pom. You should be able to feel the hole with your fingers.

Grip your pom pom tightly as you thread, to keep any yarn strands from coming loose.

Trim any extra sticky out bits and add a spot of craft glue to your string (near the center of your pom poms) to keep your pom poms in place.

This is a simple guide to the best candle-making kit. It’s super fun and much easier than you’d think to make your own handmade scented candles when you use a kit. And the best thing about them is that they are all made from soy (or beeswax) – so not only will they give you a much cleaner, healthier burn than paraffin but you’ll also get a cleaner, purer scent throw.

To help you choose which kit is right for you, we’ve put together comprehensive reviews for the best candle-making kits on the market today. Our research showed that there were four clear winners.

Reviews for the Candle Making Kits We Picked

Editor’s Award	Brand
Our Top Pick/ Best Over All Candle Making Kit	Soy Candle Making Kit for Adults by DIY Gift Kits
Alternative Top pick	Luxury Candle Making Kit by Scandinavian Candle Co.
Best Beeswax Candle Making Kit	Scented Candle Making Kit DIY Gift Set by YINUO LIGHT
Best for Colored Candles	Candle Making Kit by StorageMaid

Our Top Pick for the Best Candle Making Kit: Soy Candle Making Kit for Adults by DIY Gift Kits

This kit comes with three 100% therapeutic grade luxury oils: lavender, lemongrass, and cedarwood essential oil, which you can either use to make single-note scented candles or combine to make your own scent blends. And there are helpful recipes in the instruction booklet to get you started.

The kit is nicely packaged, having been designed to give to someone as a DIY gift. If you go for this kit for yourself, you can also bear it in mind as a future gift for someone else.

You get all the essentials to make your candles, including an 8-oz pack of soy wax, a melting pot, braided paper wicks, mounting stickers (to stick the wicks in place), clothespin wick holders, and well-designed labels for your tins.

You also get 2 color blocks in orange and burgundy so you can add color to your candles.

What We Like:

• Three Therapeutic Grade Oils | Lavender, lemongrass, and cedarwood essential oil. The kit includes a recipe booklet so you can try different blends.
• Includes Tea Light Tins | The kit comes with two 8-oz tins, two 4-oz tins a well as 10 tea light tins.

Buying Factors to Consider:

Unlike our alternative pick coming up next, this kit doesn’t come with a thermometer. But they’re very cheap to buy and aren’t strictly necessary.

Alternative Top pick: Luxury Candle Making Kit by Scandinavian Candle Co.

The kit contains a generous three, 8 oz bags of natural soy wax, (our first choice only has one). However, you only get two fragrance oils. But they are the ever-popular basil & mandarin, and wood sage & sea salt – reminiscent of the gorgeous Jo Malone scent range.

This kit also comes with a thermometer, so you can check your wax is heated to 180 to 185 degrees recommended before adding your fragrance. You can, as you become more familiar with the process, also use your thermometer to experiment, for example, with the low temp method.

Also included are a 2 lb wax melting pitcher, 6 gold candle tins, cotton candle wicks, centering devices, glue dots, stirring sticks, and an instruction booklet.

Additionally, you get 2 high-end-looking fabric gift bags, and 12 designer labels. The kit also includes 6 warning labels, handy if you are selling or giving away your candles as gifts.

What We Like:

• Kit Includes 24 oz of Soy Wax | In comparison, the DIY Gift Kits one only comes with one, 8 oz bag.
• Two Blended Fragrances | Basil & mandarin, and wood sage & sea salt.
• Two Fabric Gift Bags | And 12 high-end-looking labels.
• Includes a Thermometer | A thermometer takes the guesswork out of the melting and cooling process.

Best Beeswax Candle Making Kit: Scented Candle Making Kit DIY Gift Set by YINUO LIGHT

You also get four 7 oz packs of pure organic beeswax, six fragrances, and six candle dye colors to complement each scent.

If you are wondering how beeswax candles compare to soy. They do have some advantages.

While both soy and beeswax are healthier, more clean-burning, and naturally last much longer than regular candles, beeswax candles last even longer than soy and are the least likely of any candle to cause allergies.

They also have a very faint (almost undetectable) honey scent of their own, making them the best choice if you don’t want to burn a scented candle.

As far as this kit goes, cotton wicks, glue dots, centering device droppers, a melting pitcher, as well as a thermometer, are all included in the kit so you have everything you need.

What We Like:

• Four 7 oz Packs of Pure Organic Beeswax | Beeswax candles last even longer than soy and are the least likely of any candle to cause allergies.
• Six Candle Dye Colors | The colors compliment the scents that come with the kit.
• Six Pure Fragrances | The kit comes with rose, lemon, lavender, eucalyptus spearmint, and ocean.

Buying Factors to Consider:

Beeswax candles are very easy to make. They require a lower temperature (just above the melting point (66ºC – 70ºC) and you should let the candle cool slowly.

Best for Colored Candles: Candle Making Kit by StorageMaid

The four fragrances that come with the kit are clean cotton, coconut lime, cinnamon, and lavender.

You also get a melting pitcher, a thermometer, 2 round, and 2 square 8 oz candle tins, cotton candle wicks, centering devices, glue dots, stirring sticks, and an instruction booklet.

The kit comes complete with warning labels and even includes silicone finger protectors.

What We Like:

• The Kit Includes 16 Color Blocks | So you can experiment to get the perfect color blend.
• Includes Four fragrances | Clean cotton, coconut lime, cinnamon, and lavender.
• Comes with a Thermometer | Not all kits include one.

Buying Factors to Consider:

It’s a good starter kit and a great option if you are making candles with children, they will love the strong colors you can get.

Unlike the other kits, this one doesn’t come with labels. But it’s a starter kit, as are all the kits we have featured here. Once you get into candle making you’ll want to design or make your own brand labels.

Candle Making Accessories

As an enthusiastic soap-maker myself, I would highly recommend that the best way to get started is to choose a good soap-making kit. These kits use the melt-and-pour method which makes the process easy, fun, and above all safe. That’s because the saponification process has already been done for you. So there’s no need to use the harsh chemicals that are required in the lye process when making soap from scratch.

And don’t worry, it’s super easy to make beautiful artisan soap. I regularly make my own soap, you can check out my favorite homemade honey oatmeal soap recipe if you like. Let me tell you, it doesn’t take too much time out of your day, – preparation is about 30 minutes or less. It’s also practically foolproof and a fun activity for kids too.

There are tons of soap-making kits on the market to choose from, so we’ve done the hard work and chosen our top 5 recommendations for the best soap-making kit on the market.

Choosing a Soap-Making Kit

One thing to note about soap-making kits is that they don’t all contain the same basic items. In other words, some kits are more complete than others. The DilaBee kit, for example, includes a bowl and pitcher for melting the soap base whereas the Chelseas kit doesn’t. I have mentioned any additional items you might need at the end of each review.

Melt and Pour Soap Bases

The most important factor to consider is the quality of the soap base – as well as the quality of any fragrances included.

High-grade kits are made with vegetarian or vegan-based SLS, SLES, and paraben-free oils. The fat content of the base has two purposes:

• Saturated fats increase a soap’s lathe.
• Unsaturated fats moisturize and nourish the skin.

As you probably already know, each type of fat has its own unique properties and therefore provides its own benefits. Bases include:

• Shea Butter
• Aloe
• Olive Oil
• Charcoal
• Coconut Milk
• Avocado Butter
• Hemp Seed Oil
• Glycerin

Molds

Some kits it has to be said, contain cheap plastic molds. They are not my favorite as they can make releasing the soap from the mold more difficult. Silicone molds in comparison are much more resilient and because they are more flexible it makes it easier to remove the soap. Fortunately, they are easy to find separately and you may want to experiment or diversify your soap shapes anyway. So you can always buy additional molds for future soap-making ventures.

Price

Soap-making kits are inexpensive and are pretty good value for money average prices are between $30 – $50. They make great gifts for like-minded crafty friends or as a treat for yourself if you fancy trying something new.

Our Top Pick	DilaBee Soap Making Kit
	ZenseMe Soap Making Kit for Adults
	Custom Melt and Pour Glycerin Soap Gift Kit by Glory Creek
	Complete DIY Soap Making Kit by Nicole
	Saponify Melt and Pour Soap Base Sampler Kit
	Pifito Melt and Pour Soap Base Sampler Kit 2

But the best part about this soap-making kit? It’s for everyone. Whether you’re a seasoned soap-making pro or just starting out, this kit has everything you need to create your own luxurious soap bars. And if you’re not thrilled with the process, no worries – your purchase is covered by a 100% Money-Back Guarantee.

So if you’re looking to get creative with soap making, this kit is the way to go.

Pros:

• Comes with 2 lbs of Shea Butter Soap Base, 4 essential oils, 4 liquid dyes, 2 plastic molds, a pouring pitcher, 2 stirring sticks, a mixing bowl, and 4 soap boxes
• Clear and easy-to-follow instructions included
• Suitable for both beginners and experienced soap makers
• 100% Money-Back Guarantee

Cons:

• Comes with plastic molds which are less practical than silicone.

With all-natural ingredients and 6 therapeutic essential oils, you can create about 8 colorful and luxurious homemade soap bars that are organic, vegan, and great quality. Plus, the included silicone mold allows you to turn out beautiful and unique soaps (with ease) in endless scent combinations. And if you run out of the included 2lbs of Shea Butter soap base, you can buy goat’s milk, glycerin, and Shea Butter soap bases to try with this kit.

Pros:

• Comes with everything you need to get started on your soap-making journey
• All-natural ingredients and 6 therapeutic essential oils included
• Can create about 8 colorful and luxurious homemade soap bars that are organic, vegan, and of great quality
• Silicone mold allows for easy creation of beautiful and unique soaps in endless scent combinations
• Includes Shea Butter soap base, but other soap bases such as goat’s milk, glycerin, and Shea Butter can be purchased to use with the kit

Cons:

• Additional items may be needed, such as a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol, measuring cup, and wooden spoon

The kit comes with 4 stars, 4 hearts, and 4 seashells. You also get squigglies and ribbons, so you can really get creative with your designs.

You get a generous 2 lbs of white and clear soap base. The kit also comes with 2 craft sticks for stirring, a silicone mini loaf pan, 8 gift bags, with jute ties, and gift cards.

Pros:

• Fun kit with lots of embeds to get creative with
• Comes with 2 lbs of quality glycerin soap base
• Includes gift bags and tags for handmade soap gifts
• Easy to use and great for practicing soap-making techniques

Cons:

• Additional items may be needed, such as a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol, measuring cup, and wooden spoon
• May not be suitable for advanced soap makers looking for more complex techniques

This package includes everything you need to create your own homemade soap. You’ll get 2 lbs of shea butter soap base, 2 silicone square containers, 6 fragrance oils, 6 liquid dyes, a glass measuring cup, a silicone stirring stick, 2 dry flowers, and 12 homemade wrap labels. Plus, there’s a detailed introduction to guide you through the soap-making process.

But what sets this kit apart from the rest is the ability to get creative with your soaps. You can mix and match scents and colors to create your own unique soaps. Plus, with the included dry flowers and other fun embeds, you can create soaps that are more fun and visually appealing than the typical bar.

And don’t worry if you’re a beginner – this kit comes with step-by-step instructions to ensure your soap-making experience is a successful one. So don’t be afraid to dive in and try your hand at soap making.

Pros:

• The kit includes a variety of fragrance oils and liquid dyes, allowing you to mix and match scents and colors to create your own unique soaps.
• The kit includes dry flowers and other fun embeds, giving you the opportunity to create visually appealing soaps.
• The kit includes step-by-step instructions, making it suitable for beginners.
• Contains silicone Molds (preferable to plastic).

Cons:

• Additional items may be needed, such as a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol.

Other Worthy Mentions:

What we love about this kit is that it comes with a food-grade loaf soap mold, a wave knife, a soap knife (for a straight edge), and a wooden beveler for chamfering your edges, so you can make artisan soap slices. Also included are 4 sizes of measuring cups, two pipettes, a silicone scraper, and a stainless steel whisk for blending your essential oils, botanicals, and minerals. If you intend to make soap using the lye process you will need to invest in a stick blender, and of course, you will need lye, distilled water, and a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol (to remove bubbles from the surface of your trace).

The kit also contains a 500g soap base to get you started with the melt-and-pour method. The soap base provided isn’t the best quality in our opinion. So If you go for this kit we recommend buying a good quality soap base.

The kit consists of 8 different, 1lb soap bases allowing you to sample and try out different the different varieties including shea butter, avocado butter, coconut milk, olive oil, charcoal, and aloe.

The kit includes a leaf-shaped mold that will give you up to 12 guest-sized bars from each 1 lb block of soap base – that’s a total of 96 bars.

We love the scope this kit gives you to experiment and develop your soap-making skills. You can keep things simple or create multi-layered combinations. You can add your own botanicals, like flowers and herbs, or add skin-safe fragrances, and colors up to 3%.

You will still need a small spray bottle containing rubbing alcohol if you want a bubble-free surface on your trace. You’ll also need a microwave-safe measuring cup, a wooden spoon, and of course, any botanicals or scents you want to add.

You can just try them all and see which one works best for you. And the best part is, you get a whole bunch of each base, so you can make a ton of soap and really get a feel for which one you like best.

Whether you’re an occasional crafter or you are lucky enough to have your own craft room, having the best craft organizer for all your materials is essential.

You don’t need to spend a fortune to be well organized either, most craft storage solutions are very affordable.

There are tons of different craft organizers on the market to choose from, so we’ve done the hard work for you and narrowed our research down to our best recommendations for each category.

Editor’s Award	Brand
Best Craft Storage Cart	Giantex 15 Drawer Rolling Storage Cart
Best Craft Bag	Everything Mary Craft Bag Organizer Tote
Best Storage Drawers	ArtBin Art Bin 0365498 Store-in-Drawer Cabinet
Best Bead Storage	Elizabeth Ward Bead Storage Solutions
Best Knitting Bag	Teamoy Knitting Bag, Yarn Tote Organizer
Best Yarn and Fabric Storage	ClosetMaid 4167 Cubeicals Organizer
Best Craft Organizer Cabinet	Craft and Hobby Cabinet with Drawers by Best Craft Organizer
Best Small Craft Organizer Cabinet	Winsome Halifax Storage

Reviews of the Craft Organizers We Recommend

If you need a craft table or sewing cabinet to complete your craft room we have in-depth guides for those too. You can also find a good craft light here.

Best Craft Storage Cart: Giantex 15 Drawer Rolling Storage Cart

The cart comes in a range of different draw configurations and sizes, that will comfortably accommodate virtually any number of crafting materials.

The fifteen drawer cart version, shown above, has five deep drawers, for yarns, fabrics, (A4) paper or card supplies, craft books, magazines, and more. As well as ten standard-sized drawers – great for craft tools including plyers, scissors, pencils, paints, knitting, crochet needles, etc.

And if you prefer a more understated look – this Giatex rolling cart also comes in plain black or white as shown below.

Whichever size or configuration is the most suitable for the craft you specialize in, they all share the same structural features. Namely a sturdy metal frame with a chrome finish, four 360-degree swivel wheels – two of which are lockable, and an integral handle design – making the cart easily portable, so it’s handy for moving the cart to just where you need it.

What We Like:

• Portable Storage | This cart design means you craft anywhere – your tools and supplies can move to wherever you want them.
• Different Drawer Sizes and Configurations Available | It has sturdy plastic trays and also comes in a choice of rainbow colors, black or white to match or contrast your craft room decor.

For other sizes just click on the images in this section.

Best Craft Bag: Everything Mary Craft Bag Organizer Tote

Made from high-quality 300 denier polyester fabric, this super roomy craft bag, has a total of seventeen different compartments, and it comes in a choice of colors to suit any taste – each as stunning as the two gorgeous color options shown above and below.

What we really love about this bag is the compartmented interior which organizes your crafting tools and materials into sections. The design makes it so easy to see everything at once and prevents a big jumble from forming at the bottom of your bag.

And there’s more than meets the eye too, the interior compartments are collapsible, two of them fold flat to make more space, and two form corner pockets – how clever is that?

There is one big zippered pocket to the rear of the bag and two pockets have flaps to safely store small items.

Dimensions: 11.75″ by 9.5″ by 7.25″

What We Like:

• Collapsible Interior Sections | The collapsable design gives this bag a fully customizable interior.
• Lots of Storage Pockets | The bag has seventeen different storage pockets.
• Attractive Design | This back is stylish and chic. It comes in a range of lovely colors or fabric options.

Best Craft Storage Drawers: ArtBin Art Bin 0365498 Store-in-Drawer Cabinet

Available in either a 9-drawer or a 30-drawer unit, the cabinet is ideal for beads, cabochons, jewelry findings, threads, bobbins, scrapbooking stamps, stamp pads, inks, or other small craft supplies.

The 30-drawer cabinet has drawer dimensions of 1.5 x 2.25 x 5.5 inches and the larger drawer unit has 9 drawers measuring 4.75 x 5.5 x 2.5 inches each.

What’s great about the design of this cabinet is that you can customize the drawer size with optional dividers, perfect if you want to add more than one type of craft item per drawer.

The cabinet itself is stackable in whichever drawer configuration you choose, and the cabinet is wall-mountable to save on space

What We Like:

• Wall Mountable and Stackable | For neat storage and saving space.
• Customizable Drawers | There is an option to add separately available dividers – ideal for adding more than one type of item to a drawer.

Best Bead Storage: Elizabeth Ward Bead Storage Solutions

But then, as long as you have everything well organized, you can never really have too many beads, can you?

The Elizabeth Ward stackable 45, or 82-piece – bead storage tray is the perfect way to organize and store your beads.

What I particularly love about this bead tray is that each drawer is an individually removable storage container that you can take out and use for whatever beads you are working with.

With the 45 – piece bead tray you get 3 large, 10 medium, 16 small, and 13 tiny bead storage containers.

The 82-piece has 78 tiny containers. The trays are stackable and come with a clear lid and a sheet of labels – handy for noting down color shades or bead types and sizes. and if you need more they are easy and cheap to buy.

The containers themselves have a secure closure but aren’t awkward to open (they open by lifting a flap on the side).

I love how easy it is to color coordinate beads for new projects. Just by placing a few containers next to each other, you can get a good idea of how well your colors will work together.

Dimensions:

• Tray 13.75 x 10.5 x 2 inches
• Large Container 0.75 x2 x 1.125 inches
• Medium 1.75 x 2 x 1.125 inches
• Small 1.0667 x 2 x 1.125 inches
• Tiny 0.75 x 2 x 1.125 inches

Best Knitting Bag: Teamoy Knitting Bag, Yarn Tote Organizer

There’s plenty of pocket storage including a zipped pocket containing two strips of MOLLE webbing, (one for 9 larger hooks and one for 6 smaller hooks,) you also get side pockets and a zippered top pocket for different-sized needles too.

For your knitting or crochet patterns, there’s a back pocket that’s perfectly designed for the purpose.

The bag is made from strong nylon and has carry handles as well as a shoulder strap.

This adorable bag is perfect for keeping everything you need for your project in one place.

And the best thing about it is you can take everything you need wherever you go – handy even if that’s just to another room.

What We Like:

• Separate Yarn Compartments with Feed Holes | This is great for knitting straight from the bag. Your yarns will never get tangled.
• Knitting Needle and Crochet Hook Storage | The back has multiple pockets for different-sized needles and MOLLE webbing strips for your crochet hooks.

Best Yarn and Fabric Storage: ClosetMaid 4167 Cubeicals Organizer

There are a number of cube options out there, including the customizable KOUSI Portable Storage Cube Organizer, which is featured in our main image at the top of this page.

The KOUSI (top main image) is made up of blocks that be assembled/stacked however you like. It’s not as sturdy as our top pick for this section, but once it’s put together it’s a good choice.

The ClosetMaid 4167 however, is a solid piece of furniture. You can choose any number of cubes to make up the finished cabinet, from a 3-2-1, combination to a 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 or 12 cube design, like the one shown below.

Back pieces come with all cabinets (except the 1-2-3 combination) and are a nice touch to the overall look of the design, as you can see in to photo above. They also help to add extra stability to the structure.

What’s great about the design of this cubed cabinet is that you can customize it with fabric bins to match or contrast your craft room decor.

The fabric bins are sold separately but any bin that measures 10.5 x 10.5 x 11″ will fit – so you can shop around for the best deals and get just the right color to match your craft room decor.

What We Like:

• Can be Used Vertically or Horizontally | This cubical storage cabinet has several configurations to choose from.
• Compatible with Fabric Storage Bins | Any 10.5 x 10.5 x 11″ Fabric storage bin will fit so you can shop around for just the right shade.

Best Craft Organizer Cabinet: Craft and Hobby Cabinet with Drawers by Best Craft Organizer

The drawers included are twelve, 1-inch drawers, six, 2-inch drawers, and four, 3.5 -inch drawers.

You can easily arrange them in any way you like, by adjusting the drawer rails closer or further apart. There are pre-drilled holes, positioned at 1-inch increments, designed specifically for the purpose.

The cabinet’s frame is made from 3/4″ thermofused melamine and it is available in either a maple or white finish. The drawers are made from high-impact polypropylene.

Though not the cheapest option we have looked at, the cabinet will last for years and give any craft room a stylish, contemporary look.

Dimensions: 14″ deep x 27″ wide x 24.5″ high.

Best Small Craft Organizer Cabinet: Winsome Halifax Storage

The cabinet is well made from composite wood and features cut-out handles and lockable castor feet.

We love the design of this cabinet (which is also available in black). Add one more unit and you could easily make your own craft desk by simply placing a tabletop above.

However, you use it, it’s one of the most stylish and convenient ways to organize your craft items.

Dimensions: Inside drawers 15.9″ wide x 11.8″ deep x 2.6″ high.

Other Craft Storage Solutions We’ve Reviewed:

These are more specialized storage solutions:

This is a quick guide to the best stained glass grinder. Maybe you want to use the copper foil method for your stained glass projects and you need the edges of your glass to be super smooth without any burrs. Or maybe you want to make perfectly shaped pattern pieces for mosaics etc. Either way, we’ve selected the best ones on the market today.

Stained glass grinders are simple in design and while they do all look pretty similar, some grinders, do have features that make them much easier to work with, as well as more efficient than others.

Before we take a look at the best ones out there, you should know that just like tile saws, lapidary saws, and cabbing machines, etc they do all require water to operate. This is to cool the glass and protect and cool the grinding bit, as well as prevent glass dust from becoming airborne.

So to get started, we’ll take a look at the most popular stained glass grinders on the market and take you through what exactly makes the best stand out from the rest.

Editor’s award	Brand
Best All-round Stained Glass Grinder	Gryphon Convertible Professional Stained Glass Grinder
Runner Up for the Best Stained Glass Grinder	Glastar All Star G8 Grinder
Best Budget Stained Glass Ginder	Gryphon Studio Stained Glass Grinder
Best Mini Stained Glass Grinder	Gryphon Gryphette Diamond Glass Grinder

Click below to jump to each topic in this guide.

• Best All-round Stained Glass Grinder
• Runner Up for the Best Stained Glass Grinder
• Best Budget Stained Glass Ginder
• Best Mini Stained Glass Grinder
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Other Stained Glass Grinders We’ve Reviewed
• Accessories and Essential Equipment

Best All-Round Stained Glass Grinder: Gryphon Convertible Professional Stained Glass Grinder

This eliminates the need for the wet sponge method of cooling the grinding bit that the majority of power grinders use.

The Gryphon Convertible does give you the option to use a sponge if you wish, and when used, it’s held in position against the grinding bit via the winged brackets behind the bit.

So what’s the deal?

While grinders that use sponges work perfectly well and many glass artists are happy using this method, this is no longer necessary with a grinder that has a built-in water pump, and to be frank, it just makes life so much easier than having to deal with a sponge that so easily clogs up with sludge (glass dust) reducing the life of your bit.

Several YouTube tutorials on how to rig up a homemade device (usually involving a plastic bottle) to drip water onto the bit are a testament to the inefficiency of the sponge.

The sponge method also requires you to make sure the sponge is kept consistently wet, or in the case of cheaper basic stained glass grinders, (which we don’t recommend even for beginners,) physically hold the sponge against the grinder bit while holding your pattern piece in your other hand.

After all, for any skill level – but especially if you are new to the craft – the last thing you want is to be wrestling with a wet sponge when you need to concentrate on smoothing and shaping your pattern pieces.

The grinder has a 0.67 amp DC motor capable of 3000 rpm and it delivers 67 oz. per inch torque. That is slightly less RPM than the All Star’s 3,560 RPM’s that we’ll be will be looking at next, but it has an impressively higher torque – thanks to its 1/5 HP DC motor.

Simply put, it’s a powerful stained glass grinder – capable of heavy and prolonged use and even with denser glass or larger pattern pieces, you will get a smooth, clean edge every time.

Other features we love about this power grinder are the large 13.5″ by 10.5″ platform for working with larger pattern pieces and the included addition of a second-story platform.

This comes in handy when working on small scale projects when a second (smaller) grinding bit is installed above the primary grinding bit.

The second story platform takes seconds to install. It clips onto the lower platform when required and the water hose can easily be adjusted accordingly.

The Convertible comes with two diamond bits. One 1″ grinding bit for general use and one 1/4″ grinding bit for finer detailed work, – the grinder is also compatible with other bit sizes too.

What We Like:

• Unique Adjustable Angle | Not everyone feels comfortable (or is able) to work standing up so having the option to adjust the angle of the grinder so that you can work sitting down is a great feature – and clearly shows the grinder was designed with thought for the user.
• Two Grinder Bits Included | It’s worth pointing out that cheaper models only come with one grinding bit.
• Highly Efficient Water Cooling System | It has a built-in water pump that drips a constant supply of water directly over the grinding bit to keep it cool. This is a feature that cheaper and more basic models don’t have.
• Second-Story Platform Included | This comes in handy when working on small scale projects – when a second (smaller) grinding bit is installed above the primary grinding bit.
• High-Torque Motor | It won’t slow down under pressure or prolonged use. The grinder has a powerful 1/5 HP DC motor which is capable of 3000 RPM and delivers 67 oz. per inch torque.

Buying Factors to Consider:

While not the cheapest stained glass grinder on the market, it’s excellent value for money (and cheaper) than our runner-up. And to be frank, it’s well worth the investment. Grinders are not a piece of equipment that get more complicated to use the higher your skill level.

The better features, most notably the built-in water pump, make these higher-spec power grinders much more user friendly especially for those new to the craft, who just want to concentrate on shaping edges and smoothing out burrs.

And don’t forget you do get 2 (most commonly used) grinder bits included with the kit which adds to the overall value of this option.

The Gryphon has a five-year limited manufacturer’s warranty.

It does cost a little more than our top choice which is why it missed our top spot but it’s an exceptionally well-made machine and does have a couple of features along with a higher RPM that may appeal to some stained glass artists.

This model has a built-in accessory drawer to keep everything tidy and in one place. It has an adjustable straight edge guide for precise grinding of straight edge pattern pieces and it also has a flexible rubber splash guard – handy when working with irregular or awkwardly- shaped pattern pieces.

Additionally, it features a large 8″ x 9″ scratch-resistant eye shield (though this isn’t a replacement for your safety glasses).

Like our top pick, it has superior bit cooling by means of a built-in water pump which eliminates the need for a sponge. Though again you can, if you like, use a sponge and there is a built-in holder specifically for the purpose.

The G8 doesn’t skimp on features. It has a large working surface of 11″ x 13″, a second story mini table for small and delicate pattern pieces and it comes with two grinding bits, a 1″ and a 1/4″ bit.

What We Like:

• Built-in Water Pump | It has a highly efficient water cooling system using a built-in water pump to keep the grinding bit cool. Again, this is a feature that cheaper, more basic models don’t have.
• Second-Story Platform Included | This comes in handy when working with small and delicate pattern pieces. A second (smaller) grinding bit can be installed above the primary grinding bit. The mini table can then be quickly and conveniently clipped onto the main platform when you want to use the smaller bit higher up.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is an excellent choice and we have nothing negative to say about it. It does cost more than our top pick but is a well made sturdy machine. You may just want to consider whether the few extra features are worth the extra cost.

The Glastar All Star G8 Grinder comes with a full 5-year warranty

Best Budget Stained Glass Ginder: Gryphon Studio Stained Glass Grinder

This is a much more efficient method. And if you choose to mount a second grinding bit over the first? Both heads will be kept wet – even if the heads are different diameters.

Despite the lower price point, you get the same powerful 1/5 HP DC motor as the Gryphon Convertable which is capable of 3000 RPM and delivers 67 oz. per inch torque.

That means the motor won’t stall as soon as you put more pressure on the bit.

The Studio only comes with one (1″) grinding bit and the platform surface area is a little smaller at 9.75” by 9” but that’s only likely to be a limiting factor if you consistently work with large pattern pieces.

What We Like:

• Affordable Option for a Stained Glass Grinder | There’s quite a big jump up in price to the Gryphon Convertable, making this a great option for beginners or those on a budget.
• High-Torque Motor | Despite the lower price point, you get the same powerful 1/5 HP DC motor as the Gryphon Convertable which is capable of 3000 RPM and delivers 67 oz. per inch torque.
• Gravity-fed Water Cooling Tower | This allows water to drip directly onto the sponge to keep the grinding bit cool.

Buying Factors to Consider:

To sum up, you’re getting a great little grinder with this option. You’ll have the same amount of power behind this glass grinder as our top choice.

You are compromising on some accessories like the second story platform, an extra grinding bit, table size, and you don’t get a water pump but the essentials are there and it’s a great machine for a low price.

Best Mini Stained Glass Grinder: Gryphon Gryphette Diamond Glass Grinder

For its small size, the Gryphon Gryphette has a powerful 0.67 amp motor delivering 3000 RPM. So you don’t need to worry about a step down in performance.

The 6.75” by 6.75” platform has an integrated space to hold the sponge which keeps the bit cool by drawing water from the reservoir below.

The Gryphette comes with one 3/4″ bit but is also compatible with other sizes too.

What We Like:

• Compact Size | Its size makes it perfect for occasional glass artists, students, or for the classroom. It’s also great for those who want a second machine.
• Powerful Motor | You’d expect a mini grinder to have a much less powerful motor but the Gryphon Gryphette has a powerful 0.67 amp motor delivering 3000 RPM.

Alternative Stained Glass Grinders:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

Accessories and Essential Equipment:

You will need to add a stained glass coolant to the water:

Lastly, if you like some inspiration, hop over to our reading room, we have some good book recommendations.

This is a straight-to-the-point guide to choosing the best spinning wheel. If you are a fiber artist – a knitter, crocheter, or weaver, for example, and you want to take your craft to the next level, the single best way to do this is by spinning your very own yarn.

The joy of blending your own colors and textures, of two or more ply and then handmaking something unique and beautiful with yarn you’ve handspun, can never be matched by using a store-bought yarn.

While it must be said, that spinning is an art that does take a little practice to learn the various techniques – it is technically easier to set up and use a spinning wheel than it might first appear.

And one of the best things about it is that there is a real charm in the slightly uneven or slubby homespun yarns you produce.

Get yourself a good tapestry loom and you can make some stunning projects with it. After all, if you wanted perfectly uniform yarn you might as well have just bought it from a store.

And if you’d like a free printable yarn label, please do hop over to our free printable page.

So if you like the idea of spinning your own yarn but you’re a little bewildered by the many different makes and styles of spinning wheels out there, don’t worry, we are here to guide you through them. We’ll take a look at the best ones out there, and help you choose the right one for you.

To get started, let’s get familiar with the most common types of spinning wheels out there and that we have compared in this guide:

The Saxony Spinning Wheel

The Saxony spinning wheel is easily recognizable by the placement of the wheel which is positioned at one end of a sloping frame. This gives the Saxony its horizontal appearance.

It has the largest footprint of all the commonly used styles so it does take up a little room.

The Castle Spinning Wheel

Castle Spinning Wheels are distinguishable by their compact, vertical appearance. As you can see to the right, the flyer is positioned above the wheel.

Modern Spinning Wheels

Designed to improve on traditional spinning wheels, modern spinning wheels come in a variety of non-traditional styles.

Electric Spinners

Since electric spinning wheels don’t require a flywheel or foot peddle to work, their compact size makes them great for traveling and easy to store away.

They are super fast and are easy to learn – since they don’t require the simultaneous hand and foot coordination required by traditional spinning wheels.

Charkha Wheels

Charkhas are the oldest known type of spinning wheel. Worked on a tabletop or often on the floor, they have a hand-turned wheel and the yarn is spun off the tip of the spindle. They are more of a specialized niche and most suitable for spinning cotton and other fine fibers.

Editor’s award	Brand
Our Top Pick – Best Affordable Option / Best for Beginners	Ashford Kiwi Spinning Wheel 3
Best Saxony Spinning Wheel for Beginners to Advanced Spinners	The Ashford Traditional
Best Affordable/Alternative Saxony Style Spinning Wheel	Kromski Prelude
Best Castle Spinning Wheel	Ashford Traveller Spinning Wheel
Best Electric Spinning Wheel	Ashford E-Spinner 3

Click below to jump to each section in this guide.

• Our Top Pick – Best Affordable Option / Best for Beginners
• Best Saxony Spinning Wheel for Beginners to Advanced Spinners
• Best Affordable/Alternative Saxony Style Spinning Wheel
• Best Castle Spinning Wheel
• Best Electric Spinning Wheel
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Other Spinning Wheels We’ve Reviewed

Our Top Pick – Best Affordable Option / Best for Beginners: Ashford Kiwi Spinning Wheel 3

As far as affordability goes, the Kiwi spinning wheel costs quite a lot less in comparison with many spinning wheels on the market. But that doesn’t mean there’s a compromise on features or quality. In fact, the new Kiwi 3 has a veneered wood finish on the flywheel, and that’s again, another step up from the Kiwi 2.

It’s super easy to use, having easy-learning ratios. This means the take-up won’t be too fast while you’re getting used to the spinning process. The 5.5, 7.5, and 9.5 to 1 flyer ratios are a measurement of how many times the flyer or bobbin spins per single revolution of the wheel. The higher the ratio the faster the yarn twists.

Generally speaking, you need a higher ratio for finer yarns, which require more twists, and a lower ratio for chunky yarns. So you see going fast isn’t always an advantage and this spinning wheel is great for spinners who want to spin chunky yarns or those just starting out in the craft. And if you get creative and want to spin either finer or super chunky yarns later on? There’s an inexpensive adapter kit to give you ratios of 7.5, 10, and 15 to 1 – suitable for finer yarns or you can add a super flyer kit with a huge 1⅛ inch orifice for spinning jumbo-sized yarns.

The double treadles are a nice feature too as they are easier on the legs and hips than a single treadle would be.

This single-drive, (Scotch tension) spinning wheel comes with 3 large 4-5ozs bobbins and a built-in Lazy Kate. 

And lastly, the central flyer is great for either right and left-handed spinners.

What We Like:

• Great for Beginners or for Thicker Yarns | The 5.5, 7.5 and 9.5 to 1 flyer ratios mean the wheel doesn’t spin too quickly for beginners. It’s also great for medium to thicker weight yarns. And remember if you want to spin finer yarns you can always add an adapter kit.
• Foldable and Portable | This is a great option for travel or simply for folding away at the end of the day. A big improvement on the Kiwi 2, are the foldable treadles.
• Affordable Option | Spinning wheels do tend to be quite pricey, which is understandable given the workmanship involved. This option, however, is very affordable in comparison.
• Double Treadles | Two treadles are much better for your legs than one. After all, spinning is a fairly lengthy process it can take several hours to spin enough yarn for a sweater.

Buying Factors to Consider:

Like virtually all spinning wheels, this one will require assembly. It will also require a finish to condition and protect the wood. That said, Ashford have very comprehensive instructions and so it’s not difficult to put it together.

Dimensions: 17½” wide, 28¾” tall, 19¾” deep.

Best Saxony Spinning Wheel for Beginners to Advanced Spinners: The Ashford Traditional Single Drive

As a single-drive spinning wheel, the Ashford Traditional is easier for beginners to master. The Scotch tension system is just easier to get to grips with. Having a separately adjustable brake and drive band makes the control of the yarn twist and take-up much easier to handle.

The single drive ratios for this 4-speed flyer are 7, 9, 12, 17 to 1 which means this model can spin a wider variety of yarn thicknesses (including finer yarns) than the Kiwi featured above.

When used as a double drive, the ratios are 7.5, 10, and 14 to 1. Double drive spinning wheels increase yarn consistency and uniformity so it’s a nice option to have. And if you want to spin very chunky yarns, ply thick yarns or spin large quantities of yarn, you can always add a Jumbo Flyer.

We should warn you it’s not small, the wheel dimension is 22″ but it’s a beautiful piece so it’s not something you’d ever want put away. The Traditional comes with 4 large 4-5ozs bobbins and has a built-in Lazy Kate for plying. 

What We Like:

• Single Drive Scotch Tension | With an option to use it as a double drive. Broadly speaking, single drives are great for beginners and double drives offer greater yarn consistency.
• Good for a Wide Variety of Yarn Thicknessess | Ratio of 7, 9, 12, 17 to 1 means this model can spin a wider variety of yarn thicknesses including much finer yarns than the Kiwi.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This spinning wheel does cost more than our first option so it is a more considered purchase but it’s a beautiful spinning wheel and not something you’ll ever outgrow. If, however, you are on a budget, you might want to consider the Kromski Prelude, next.

The Traditional will require assembly, but it’s pretty straightforward forward and this option (which is cheaper), does require finishing. There is, however, a finished version of this spinning wheel though as you’d expect, it does cost more.

Check the latest price for The Ashford Traditional Single Drive on Amazon.

Best Affordable/Alternative Saxony Style Spinning Wheel: Kromski Prelude

This single-drive, Scotch tension spinning wheel combines all the traditionality of a Saxony style wheel with the features and optional extras, such as a jumbo flyer kit and fast flyer, to take it from a slower to mid-speed spinning wheel with whorl ratios of 6, 10.5 and 13 to 1 (great for beginners who are developing their skills), to a versatile spinning wheel with additional whorl ratios of 5.5, 7.9, 11, 14.5 & 16.5 to 1 – a spinning wheel capable of spinning most thicknesses of yarn.

The frame is made from unfinished European alder and birch wood and the Prelude comes with three 4 oz bobbins and a built-in Lazy Kate.

What We Like:

• Affordable | The Kromski Prelude is a great option for those who would like a traditional Saxony-style spinning wheel without the high price tag that usually comes with one.
• Good for a Wide Range of Yarn Thicknesses | It’s great for beginners but you won’t outgrow its capabilities and you can increase them even more with additional flyer options.
• Compact Size | It’s one of the smallest Saxony Spinning wheels you can get and the mother-of-all can be folded in line with the bench. This makes the Prelude great for taking to events or classes.

Best Castle Spinning Wheel: The Ashford Traveller

Available as either a single or double drive, this single drive Scotch tension wheel with whorl ratios of  6, 7.5, 10, 14 to 1 is ideal for spinning medium or finer yarns. And if you want to spin chunky yarns – you can just add a Jumbo Flyer. Other options include a lace flyer and a turbo kit so you’ll never feel limited by choosing this model.

One of the advantages this style has over the Traditional spinning wheel is that this one has double treadles. These are easier on the legs and hips than a the single treadle – especially over a prolonged period of time.

What We Like:

• Compact Design | Ideal for those with more limited space.
• Ideal For Medium to Finer Yarns | It’s ideal for spinning medium or finer yarns but with the addition of a Jumbo Flyer, you can spin chunky or thick yarns too.

Best Electric Spinning Wheel: Ashford E-Spinner 3

Its compact size and light weight (only 4.4 lbs) make it ideal for travel. It even has its own padded carry bag with shoulder straps.

The E-Spinner comes complete with a tensioned lazy kate for plying and the machine is very easy to operate having just three control buttons – an on/off switch, a forward or reverse switch for plying and a fully adjustable speed dial so you can go as fast or as slow as you like – anywhere from 0 up to 1800 rpm.

The knob above the control buttons that you can see in the photo above opens the front gate so you can easily change your bobbin.

Included in the kit are three jumbo (8oz) bobbins, a tensioned lazy kate, one bottle of oil, and a handy on/off foot controller which you can use optionally.

Dimensions: 10¼ by 5½ by 8½ inches.

What We Like:

• Motor for slow to Superfast Spinning Speeds | It has a quiet 12 volt DC 2.0 amp 70-watt motor that can give you a spinning speed of up to 1800 rpm – which is super fast for spinning.
• Portable | It’s the smallest spinning wheel on the market – ideal for RV, caravan, or car, with an available adapter kit or power pack.
• No Treadles | Great for those for whom treadling would be uncomfortable or impractical.

Rigid heddle looms are ideal for all skill levels. You can sample hand-spun yarns or weave something fabulous and unique for yourself or a friend – without the hassle of setting up a large complicated loom.

When it comes to choosing the best rigid heddle loom, there are two brands that really stand out as being the gold standard. So here we will focus on the Schacht and Ashford rigid heddle loom.

And just so you know, you really can’t go wrong with either of them, but there are some important differences between the two that you absolutely should know about before you buy.

Type	Brand
For Beginners	Schacht Cricket Loom Available as in 10″ wide or 15″ wide. Lowest Price: Blick Art Materials
Our Runner Up/Alternative Pick for Beginners	Ashford SampleIt Weaving Loom 10″ or the SampleIt Weaving Loom 16″ From Amazon
Foldable Weaving loom	Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 15″ or the Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″ From Amazon
Foldable Weaving Loom/Alternative Pick	Ashford Knitter’s 12 ” Loom or the Ashford Knitter’s Loom 20″ From Amazon
Larger Looms	Ashford Weaving Rigid Heddle Loom 48″ From Amazon

Below is the number of rigid heddle dent sizes available for each brand. The larger the number the finer the yarn and vice versa. For example, 5 dent is perfect for bulky yarns, 8-dent for worsted yarns, and 12-dent for lace-weight yarns.

Brand	Available Dent Sizes.	Dent Included
Schacht Cricket	8, 10, 12, and 15 dpi	8 dpi
Ashford SampleIt	2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, and 15 dpi	7.5 dpi
The Schacht Flip	5, 8, 10 and 12 dpi	10 dpi
Ashford Knitter’s Loom	2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, and 15 dpi	7.5 dpi

For Beginners: Schacht Cricket Loom

Both the Schacht Cricket loom and the Ashford loom are very similar – and to be perfectly honest, they are both excellent choices.

The Schacht loom stands out in a couple of areas that give it the edge over the Ashford for most people. But you may disagree, if, for instance, you are keen to work with bulky yarns. As you can see from the table above, there is a wider range of optional extra dent sizes available for the Ashford than for the Cricket, allowing you to work with bulky yarns if you wish.

One area where the Schacht Cricket rigid heddle loom stands out is that the ABS plastic teeth of the heddles are a little sturdier, and therefore more durable than the nylon teeth of the Ashford so are less likely to bend or break over time.

The Cricket comes with an 8-dent rigid heddle (or reed as it is sometimes referred to). The Ashford comes with a 7.5 dent but they are pretty much the same given that the US-made Cricket has imperial measurements and the New Zeland-made Ashford loom is metric. This means they are both ideal for the most commonly used, worsted yarns.

But most significantly, this loom has front and back beams.

These front and back beams are a feature the Ashford doesn’t have. They hold the woven cloth to the front of the loom, and warp threads to the back of the loom, up, and over the front cloth beam and the back warp beam. You can see this in the photo below.

This means the cloth won’t build up and become bulky on the cloth beam so you can basically weave much longer lengths of fabric while still maintaining a nice even shed (the area where the shuttle passes back and forth).

And it’s this design feature that for us, wins the day.

The frame is made from high-quality maple (apple ply and hard maple) and comes, as most of them do, unfinished so you may want to apply a coat of Danish oil or a gel stain to condition and treat the wood for longevity.

Included in the box are a threading hook, warping peg, table clamps, two shuttles, and a couple of balls of yarn to get you started. There are also comprehensive instructions as well as copious youtube video tutorials so if you are learning to weave don’t worry, you’ll never be on your own.

The Schacht Cricket Loom is available in either a 10-inch or 15-inch width. The size you choose will depend on what types of projects you want to make.

You’ll ideally need a good size table to warp the loom as you’ll need some distance to create a good warp length – which will mean clamping your warping peg to the far end of the table. Once your loom has been warped, however, either the 10″ or the 15″ loom can be worked on a tabletop or even balance on your knee.

What We Like:

• Rigid Heddle | The reeds are more sturdy than those of the Ashford.
• Front and Back Beams | These are a great design feature in that they hold the woven cloth and warp threads up, over the front cloth beam and the back warp beam. This prevents the cloth from building up on the cloth beam so you get a consistently more even shed and you can work much longer pieces of cloth.

Buying Factors to Consider:

Unlike the Ashford Samplit we’ll be looking at next, there isn’t a slot to add another heddle. If you’d prefer to have the option to add a second heddle you may prefer to go for the Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom we’ll be looking at later, alternatively, there are ways to get around this with this loom as shown in this youtube video, meaning you can, in theory, add another heddle if you wish.

I want to add here, that although it might seem that you could just buy an Ashford heddle, it won’t fit the Cricket loom but could, with a bit of DIY, be adapted.

Lastly only the foldable looms come fully assembled so you will need to put this one together, it is very easy though.

Check the price for the Schacht Cricket Loom 10″ or 15″ at Blick Art Materials.

Check the latest price for the Schacht Cricket Loom 10″ or the Schacht Cricket Loom 15″ on Amazon.

If you’re in the UK, the Schacht Cricket Loom is available on Etsy here.

Our Runner Up / Alternative Pick for Beginners: Ashford SampleIt Weaving Loom 10″ or the SampleIt Weaving Loom 16″

A couple of features that stand out for us about SampleIt loom are first, the number of extra dent sizes available, as you can see in the table above. That means if you wish, you can work with much thicker yarns than you could with the Schacht Cricket loom.

And secondly, the Sample It loom, also has a built-in second heddle option. That means you don’t need any hacks or DIY to add a second heddle. The slot is already there for you.

The only feature that this loom doesn’t have and the Schacht loom does is the addition of the front and back beam.

With the Ashford Samplit loom, the cloth winds straight onto the cloth beam- which is fine – there’s no problem with that, except if you want to work on very long pieces. In which case the cloth would build up and add an increasing amount of bulk to the cloth beam. This could start to reduce your shed.

One thing I especially like is the design of the rachet gear. When you turn the gear to advance your fabric the gear doesn’t require tension to lock so there’s no chance the rachet dog or pawl will jump out of the gear. With the Cricket you’d feel safer placing a finger on the dog while you turn the gear.

The loom itself is made from solid natural silver beech timber, and like the Cricket loom would just need a little Danish oil or a gel stain to finish it.

The Sampleit is available either in a 10-inch width or a 16-inch width depending on the types of projects you want to make.

What We Like:

• Wider Number of Rigid Heddle Dent Sizes Available | There are more dent sizes available for the Ashford SampleIt than the Schacht loom meaning you can use extra bulky yarns if you wish.
• Built-in Slot for a Second Rigid Heddle | This means you can easily add a second reed if you want to without any hacks or DIY skills.
• Sturdier Ratchet Gear | This means that there’s no chance the rachet pawl will jump out of the gear while you are advancing your cloth.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is an amazing loom, it’s lightweight, easy to warp, easy to use, and capable of so much more than it’s simple design would have you believe.

If you want to create very long pieces, however, you may find the design of the Schacht Cricket or Flip loom works better for you, as it has front and back beams that prevent the cloth from building up on the cloth beam narrowing your shed size.

Lastly as previously mentioned, only the foldable looms come fully assembled so you will need to put this one together, but it’s easy so a degree in physics is not required.

Foldable Rigid Heddle Looms: Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 15″ or the Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″

There are other advantages too. Unlike the Cricket loom the Flip loom comes with built-in blocks or slots for multiple heddles – making it easy to add an extra heddle if you want to. There are a few different sizes of the Flip loom to choose from depending on how wide you’d like your loom to be. You can choose between a 15”, 20”, 25”, and 30″ weaving width. The 15″ and the 25″ featured here differ only in that there is just one single rachet gear on one side of the 15″ (and also the 20″) loom and there are two, (one on each side) on the 25″ (and also the 30″) loom.

Instead of the front and back beams, which are a feature of the Cricket loom, Schacht’s Flip heddle loom has a top cross brace which means you can weave long warps, up to a whopping 15 to 18 feet without any reduction in the size of the shed.

The frame is made in the US from high-quality maple and hand-rubbed with a Danish oil finish and whichever size you choose, each includes a 10 dent reed, a warping peg, two shuttles, and two clamps, a threading hook, and comprehensive warping and weaving instructions.

What We Like:

• Portable and Foldable | Perfect for folding away either between or mid-project. The back leg allows you to hook it onto a table or you can install it on a trestle stand.
• Built-In Blocks for Multiple Heddles | This is a handy feature that the Cricket range doesn’t have.
• It Has a Top Cross Brace | This means you can weave long warps, up to a whopping 15 to 18 feet without any reduction in the size of the shed.
• No Finishing Required | It’s made from high-quality maple and is already hand-rubbed with a Danish oil finish so no finishing is required.
• Fully Assembled | Most looms require assembly, though this is generally easy, if you are really not into DIY, this foldable loom is the way to go.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is a great weaving loom, there are no downsides except for the fact that we should mention that a folding loom does cost more than a same-sized non-folding rigid heddle loom. But this one is very similar in price to its nearest foldable rival next.

Check the latest price on Amazon:

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 15″

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 20″

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 30″

A Foldable/Alternative Pick: Ashford Knitter’s Loom 20″

Though very similar to the Flip there are a couple of differences I want to point out. The first is that the ratchet gear is superior to that of the Flip, it doesn’t require any warp tension. You can hear it clicking into place when you turn it – even with no warp on the loom. That means the dog or pawl won’t jump out while you are advancing your work.

Secondly, and this is not exactly a plus point, it doesn’t have a top cross brace so the cloth winds straight onto the cloth beam. This, as with the SampleIt loom, means the cloth will build up and become bulky after a certain point, reducing your shed size. That said, weavers have reported completing a 9 feet long project without any problems.

The loom comes ready assembled and finished. Included is a 7.5 dent heddle, two stick shuttles, a warping peg and a clamp, a double-ended threading hook and easy-to-follow instructions.

What We Like:

• Portable and Foldable | Perfect for storing away either between project or mid-project.
• Built-In Blocks for Multiple Heddles | This is a handy feature meaning you can easily add a second heddle for more complex weave patterns.
• Superior Ratchet Gear | The gear is, in our opinion, superior to that of the Flip, it doesn’t require any tension. You can hear the pawl clicking into place when you turn it even with no warp on the loom.

Check the latest price on Amazon:

Ashford Knitter’s 12 ” Loom

Ashford Knitter’s 20″ Loom

Ashford Knitter’s 28″ Loom

Larger Looms: Ashford Weaving Rigid Heddle Loom 48″ or the Ashford Weaving Rigid Heddle loom 32″

The simplicity of a rigid heddle loom makes it an ideal choice for beginners but with the addition of pick-up sticks and extra reeds, the loom is capable of more advanced and complex weaving techniques so this is not a loom you’ll outgrow.

Like all Ashford looms, this one is well made with a sturdy self-locking ratchet gear that doesn’t require the tension of the warp to set it, so the pawl won’t jump off the gear while you are advancing your work.

The loom comes with a 7.5 ” dent but has a built-in double heddle block so you can add additional heddles if you wish. It also comes with one 22″ natural shuttle and one 30″ natural shuttle.

Made from unfinished silver beech hardwood you can easily finish it by applying a little Danish oil or a gel stain.

What We Like:

• Built-In Double Heddle Block | This loom has a built-in double heddle block so you can add additional heddles if you wish.
• Superior Ratchet Gear | The gear doesn’t require any warp tension to set it. You can hear the pawl clicking into place when you turn it even with no warp on the loom.

Buying Factors to Consider:

None – if you want a loom with extra width to complete large weaving projects this is the loom for you.

I have to admit, I’m a bit obsessed with mid-century interior design, especially furniture. I love the clean, elegant lines and the timeless modern look you can so easily achieve with this style.

In my guide to Eames chair replicas, I briefly mentioned the Eames elephant and the iconic mid-century Eames house bird, which was not in fact, created by, but was certainly made famous by, Charles and Ray Eames.

The original bird was actually first made in 1910 but the Eames’s where completely inspired by it when they found one on their travels, and it subsequently became a much-loved art piece for their home.

Anyway, that was the inspiration for the simple aqua green needle felted bird that you can see in the photo above.

If you’d like to have a go, you can make this bird any size you like by simply adjusting the quantities of raw materials you use – you can pretty much eyeball how much you’ll need. My bird stands 7 inches tall and measures 9 inches from beak to tail.

If this project helps you feel inspired, why not head over to our reading room where you’ll find some great needle felting book recommendations.

Skill level: Beginner

If you want to give away your bird as a gift, all you need to add is your free printable handmade label.

Beading weaving using a bead loom is so much faster and easier than picking up one bead at a time. They’re also are ideal for beginners because they don’t require any special talent to learn – so you can make that perfect beaded bracelet, on your very first try. To that end, we’ve written a quick guide to the best bead loom according to your budget and for the type of project, you want to make.

So to start our series of weaving reviews let’s get to it straight away.

Editor’s Award	Brand
Our Top Pick – Best Overall	CLOVER 9910 Beading Loom
Best for Beaded Bracelets	Ricks Beading Loom Kit
Best for Advanced Beaders	Lacis Bead Loom Hardwood Purse Bead Loom
Best Budget Beading Loom	Cousin Large Traditional Bead Loom kit
Best Budget/Portable Beading Loom for Beginners	Beadalon Jewel Loom Kit

Click below to jump to full review in this guide.

• Our Top Pick – Best Overall
• Best for Beaded Bracelets
• Best for Advanced Beaders
• Best Budget Beading Loom
• Best Portable/Budget Beading Loom for Beginners
• Frequently asked Questions
• Other Bead Looms We’ve Reviewed

Reviews of Our Top Picks for the Best Bead Loom.

Our Top Pick – Best Overall: CLOVER 9910 Beading Loom

The loom is adjustable from 2-1/4 inches long for small, delicate projects like pendants, earrings, or brooches, etc to 8-3/8 inches long. However, the winding beam allows you to work on much longer projects if you wish.

There are two different groove sets spaced either for round or seed beads and one for narrower cylinder (Delica) beads. Clover says this allows for a width of up to 2-1/2″ or 40 warp threads – for a 39 round bead pattern, or a width of 2-9/16″ or 44 warp threads – for a 43 cylinder bead pattern.

Don’t worry if you are new to beading and that sounds a little confusing. What that basically means is that you get a nice even tension whether you use 11/0 round seed beads or narrower Delica 11/0 seed beads, because the warp threads on this loom can be specifically set for either.

Just so you know, the loom also allows you to mix your beads or use larger beads than mentioned, by changing the intervals between the warp threads if you wish.

The set-up is a breeze on this weaving loom whether you’re a beginner or not. The loom comes with 4 holders that clip onto the winding beam to grip your thread while you warp the loom, and 12 pegs for continuous warping (depending on your method of warping). Pro tip – continuous warping means easy removal of your project and minimal hiding and securing of your (only two) threads – clover provided written as well as video tutorials on how to do this.

This loom also features 2 handy metal warp thread stoppers. These slide into the grove sets on top of your warping threads and prevent your threads from jumping out while you work.

Included in your package you also get 1 beading needle (#10), one needle threader, and comprehensive instructions. Clover has also produced several helpful video tutorials to get you up and running.

What We Like:

• Adjustable Length | For projects from 2-1/4 inches long to 8-3/8 inches long. And longer projects can be achieved using the winding beam.
• Two Different Groove Sets | It’s suitable for all skill levels as it’s very easy to set up and use and it has features such as the metal warp thread stoppers and the choice between two grove sets, for example, that you only get with this loom.
• Comprehensive Instructions | And several freely available video tutorials mean you’re not on your own – even if you are completely new to beading on a loom.

Buying Factors to Consider:

• If you’re not sure how much you’ll like using a loom, this isn’t as cheap as the Beadalon Jewel Loom Kit. But it’s a perfect choice if you plan to make lots of projects with it.

Check the latest price for the CLOVER 9910 Beading Loom on Amazon.

Best for Beaded Bracelets: Ricks Beading Loom Kit

Handmade in the US from high-quality wood, the design is very simple, you adjust and tighten the frame to your desired length before you begin and warp the loom using the pegs provided to secure the thread at whichever end you start and end up at.

The loom will accommodate projects up to just under 12 inches in length, and nearly 3 – 1/4 inches wide. Longer projects can be achieved by sewing two lengths of completed beadwork together like a quilt.

Weaving the beads close to the warp rods leaves you with just two warp threads to deal with at the end of your project and only tiny end loops that will easily disappear in your beadwork.

The loom comes with 3 warp rods (one is a spare), 3 warp pegs, and 1 warp separator card. The loom also comes with comprehensive instructions and again there are good video tutorials freely available for this loom.

What We Like:

• Two Warp Threads to Deal with When Your Project Is Complete | This saves you time and makes finishing your project so much more straight forward.
• Loom Naturally Tilts Towards You | There’s also ample space to maneuver beneath your beadwork.
• Adjustable Length | Upto just under 12 inches in length.

Buying Factors to Consider:

The only thing I should point out about this loom is that it does require you to know how long you want your finished beadwork to be before you begin.

Check the latest price for Ricks Beading Loom Kit on Amazon.

Best for Advanced Beaders: Lacis Bead Loom Hardwood Purse Bead Loom

The high-quality hardwood frame can be angled or used on a flat surface.

For ease of setup and use, the frame uses the continuous warping method. This allows you to rotate or advance your beadwork as you go. The result of this being that you always work in the center of the loom.

Even advanced beaders will no doubt be wondering how to space the warping thread correctly for your project. This is done by making your own beaded warp spacer using a row of beads from your chosen project which you simply attach to one end – creating tension by means of an elastic band and a couple of paper clips. But don’t worry there are video tutorials to show you how this is done.

What We Like:

• Professional Loom For Large Projects | This loom gives you a generous working area of 11 inches wide by 36 inches long.
• Loom Uses the Continuous Warping Method | This allows you to rotate your beadwork as you go so that you are always working in the center of the loom.

Buying Factors to Consider:

You may also want to consider buying a 1/4 inch by 24-inch length of dowl to feed through the holes in the center of this loom. This will allow you to rotate the frame swiftly and efficiently, which makes warping this loom so much faster and easier.

It’s a well-made versatile loom and great for larger projects, but it does require some knowledge and experience to handle it.

If you are a beginner but would like to work on larger projects you should opt for our budget option next.

Check the latest price for the Lacis Bead Loom Hardwood Purse Bead Loom on Amazon.

Best Budget Beading Loom: Cousin Large Traditional Bead Loom kit

The simple but effective design of this loom features a metal spiral or coil warp separator and the winding beams are tightened by wingnuts at each end.

The loom comes with beads, thread, and needles, to get you started and it includes instructions on how to weave several patterns including chevrons, waves, and Aztec styles.

What We Like:

• Large Workspace | It can accommodate up to 66 bead rows for larger projects as well a being ideal for bracelets, necklaces and other smaller items of jewelry.
• Suitable for the Tightest Budget | If you are in the least bit curious about whether you’ll enjoy bead looming or not, you seriously can’t go wrong for the price.
• Easy to Warp | Setup can be done in less than 5 minutes.

Check the latest price Cousin Large Traditional Bead Loom kit on Amazon.

Best Portable/Budget Beading Loom for Beginners: Beadalon Jewel Loom Kit

That’s all there is to it!

Again this loom is so affordable it’s a must-have addition for those that love to craft while traveling – it even comes in a clear zippered pouch to keep everything together neatly.

What We Like:

• The Book and Loom Make a Great Grift Idea | The book is full of amazing jewelry projects and inspirational ideas. It just goes to show you what can be achieved with such a simple inexpensive little loom.
• Tension Rod | This makes warping easy and sets the correct tension for you when the warping rod is removed.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is a must-have loom – whether it’s your first loom to start practicing on or a portable addition to one of the larger looms featured above.

Just remember that it is just plastic and has the potential to snap if you warp it too tightly.

Check the latest price for the Beadalon Jewel Loom Kit on Amazon.

Feel inspired? Head over to our reading room where you’ll find some more great beading book recommendations.

Other Bead Looms We’ve Reviewed:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look.

And if you need somewhere to store your beads – beading is totally addictive so believe me, you will – hop over to our craft organizer guide to take a look at our (very affordable) bead storage pick.

And don’t worry – there’s also a wealth of helpful tips and tutorials available out there in the crafting community so you’ll never be on your own.

And lastly, if you find yourself working on a bead project and struggle to see what you’re doing, a good craft light with a magnifier will make a ton of difference. Honestly, I can’t recommend one enough!

Sewing cabinets are a must-have for anyone who loves sewing. They’re a place to store away your sewing machine, they tend to come with built-in storage shelves, bins and caddies and, best of all, they close up to become, well, just a nice piece of furniture, like a side table or lamp table.

For this review guide, we selected the best sewing cabinet according to different people’s criteria. We choose the most aesthetically pleasing as well as the most practical and sturdy sewing cabinets for you, so let’s get straight to it.

Editor’s Award	Brand
Our Top Pick / Best Overall	Sauder Miscellaneous Storage Sewing Craft Cart
Alternative Top Pick	Mainstay Sewing / Craft Center – Folding Table
Best for Small Spaces	Giantex Folding Sewing Craft Table
Best Cabinet with Airlift	Arrow 503 Sewnatra Sewing Cabinet for Sewing
Best for Quilters	Arrow 700 Bertha Sewing Cabinet
Best Sewing Table with Storage	Sew Ready Eclipse Hobby Sewing Center

Click below to jump to each topic in this guide.

• Our Top Pick / Best Over All
• Best Alternative Top Pick
• Best for Small Spaces
• Best Cabinet with Airlift
• Best for Quilters
• Best Sewing Table with Storage
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Other Sewing Cabinets We’ve Reviewed

Our Top Pick / Best Over All: Sauder Miscellaneous Storage Sewing Craft Cart

There are two adjustable shelves in the cupboard on the right which are handy for fabrics, books, and other sewing essentials.

The left section, which opens out on lockable rollers, reveals two handy storage bins on the inside of the door, and a central shelf area measuring 9-1/2 inches deep by 22 inches wide which is specifically made to store your sewing machine.

The melamine tabletop surface is heat, stain, and scratch-resistant and the table is finished in cinnamon cherry which is a rich dark brown.

What We Like:

• Table Surface | The melamine tabletop is heat, stain, and scratch-resistant.
• Large Tabletop Surface | Extending from 40 inches to 63.5 inches wide.
• Sturdy Construction | The unopened surface can hold up to 75lbs in weight and the opened-out surface can hold up to 20lbs.

Buying Factors to Consider:

You might prefer a different finish to match your décor, in which case take a look at our next choice.

Best Alternative Top Pick: Mainstay Sewing / Craft Center – Folding Table

This sewing cabinet is finished in amber pine, it has more paneling details and two faux drawer handles to complete the look.

Both cabinets have casters which makes them easily portable and they lock into place with brakes for stability when the table is ready for use.

Whether you prefer the dark or light wood finish, what’s most impressive about this design, is that everything neatly folds away when not in use.

What We Like:

• Large Tabletop Surface | The table surface extends from 40 inches to 63.5 inches wide.
• Design Details | This option has nice design details. It’s finished in amber pine, has more paneling and two faux drawer handles to complete the look.

Buying Factors to Consider:

The only downside to this design is that the sewing machine has to be manually lifted onto the tabletop. If you prefer the machine with an automatic lift you should consider one with an airlift that we have featured below.

Best for Small Spaces: Giantex Folding Sewing Craft Table

The door which opens on lockable wheels, reveals an adjustable hidden shelf measuring 22 inches in length – perfect for storing away a serger, sewing machine, or even a die cutting machine. It has three handy built-in storage bins for sewing accessories measuring 14- 1/2 inches in length, 4 inches deep, and 1-1/2 inches high.

There are two wood finishes to choose from in this range, white, which can be seen in the photo at the top of this section, and natural wood which is shown above.

Dimensions (LXWXH):

23.0″ x 16.0″ x 31.0″ (closed) 46.0″ x 16.0″ x 31.0″ (open)

What We Like:

• Great for Small Spaces | This cabinet is compact, portable, and foldable.
• Lockable Wheels | It has 5 wheels for portability – two of which are lockable for stability.
• Sturdy Construction | Though it’s made from particleboard it does have a solid construction.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is a nice affordable option. If you have a heavy sewing machine, you may find a cabinet that has airlift a better option. We will take a look at a similar cabinet to this one that does have airlift next.

Best Cabinet with Airlift: Arrow 503 Sewnatra Sewing Cabinet for Sewing

With this cabinet, you don’t need to manually lift the sewing machine out of the cabinet and into place. A simple push will automatically raise or lower the machine, and the mechanism is adjustable for all sewing machine base heights.

This also means there is another advantage to this table in that when the machine is lifted into the flatbed position, the universal insert that comes with it, creates a flush sewing surface – and that’s something that just isn’t possible with cabinets that don’t have airlift.

The cabinet will accommodate sewing machines up to 18-7/8 inches wide, 12-9/16 inches deep and, 13-1/8 inches high and the fold-out leaf cleverly covers the cut-out hole when folded away.

The only slight design flaw we can see with this option is that the fold-out door opens to the right. This means it, unnecessarily, takes up more room when opened out than, for example, the Giantex cabinet does, that we have featured above. That said, it folds away from a generous 68-7/16 inches wide to a compact size of 23-3/4 inches wide, 19-5/8 inches deep, and 31 inches tall.

On the inside door, there are two good storage bins but unlike others, this cabinet also features two thread spindles that will organize and hold 10 spools of thread, each.

It comes in three wood finishes white, classic oak-grain, or black so it will fit in with pretty much any decor, and if it doesn’t? You could easily spray paint this choice because the design means the top folds over to reveal the underside, so there is no chance you’ll scratch your nice paintwork off.

What We Like:

• Automatic Airlift | A simple push will automatically raise or lower the machine.
• Compact Size | At 23-3/4 inches wide, 19-5/8 inches deep, and 31 inches tall, it’s a great little space saver and could quite easily double up as a bedside table or lamp table, etc.
• Comes with a Universal Insert Included | This creates a flush sewing surface – something you would get with our first two choices.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This cabinet is great for small spaces and the airlift feature makes it an excellent investment for your back. If you’re an advanced sewer or a quilter and you’d prefer a larger surface to work on, and you’d like the airlift feature, take a look at our next choice.

Best for Quilters: Arrow 700 Bertha Sewing Cabinet

In addition to the open table depth of just under 60 inches, the table’s side leaves open up from 43-1/2 inches wide to just over a whopping 84 inches wide, so there’s enough space to sew large quilts, iron, and maybe add a laptop as shown in the photo above.

This is a table for the serious quiltmaker, crafter, or sewer. It has an opening that will accommodate a large sewing machine of up to 22-9/16″ wide, 11-3/4″ deep, and 14-1/2″ tall.

And don’t worry about having to lift your sewing machine onto the table, this cabinet features a hydraulic airlift to easily store and raise your machine for you.

And lastly, to give you a completely flush surface to work on, you can choose to add a custom-made insert specifically made for your particular brand of sewing machine.

What We Like:

• Multiple Storage Bins | This includes three smaller bins on each inside door plus one large one on each side, to store fabrics etc.
• Airlift | Much better for your back if you have a large or heavy sewing machine.
• Fold-Out Quilt Leaf | Offering an additional 20 inches of depth to the table surface behind your sewing machine. Additionally, it slides to whatever position you want.
• Custom Made Insert Available | You can have one specifically made for your particular brand of sewing machine.

Buying Factors to Consider:

While this sewing cabinet is a more considered purchase, it’s good value considering it comes with airlift for your sewing machine and an extra-large surface area of 84 inches by 60 inches which is ideal for quiltmaking.

Best Sewing Table with Storage: Sew Ready Eclipse Hobby Sewing Center

Firstly, there are a few different styles to choose from in this range. It comes with either no drawer (a fold-flat table option that’s completely portable), one drawer, or three drawers, and you can choose whether you want fabric or metal drawers like we have featured in the photo above.

The one thing they all have in common is a drop-down platform measuring 23 inches wide by 10. 75 inches deep, that adjusts to six different height positions to accommodate most machine base heights. That means you’ll get a flush surface to sew on.

What We Like:

• Available in a Number of Different Styles | From a completely portable, fold-flat version to one with three fabric or metal drawers.
• Drop Down Platform | That accommodates most machine base heights as it can adjust to six different height positions.

Buying Factors to Consider:

We wouldn’t recommend this option if you have a heavy or particularly large sewing machine – the drop-down tray will only hold around 20 lbs comfortably. We also wouldn’t recommend it for advanced sewers as the table can vibrate (usually depending on your floor surface) when a sewing machine is used at a higher speed.

Alternative Sewing Cabinets

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

In this follow-up post to our cabbing machine guide, we will look at the best lapidary saw to take you through the complete jewelry-making process from cutting rough rock into slabs to trimming slabs to make cabochons, or cabs as they are often referred to, used in all types of jewelry from necklaces, to earrings, bracelets, and rings, etc.

And if you’re more interested in cutting geodes to reveal their exquisite interiors or you want to cut slabs or cut rocks for other creative projects, don’t worry, this guide has that covered too. We will help you choose the best lapidary saw to take you through the whole process.

Editor’s Award	Brand	Product
Best Lapidary Slab Saw	Hi-Tech Diamond 10″ Lapidary Slab Saw
Best Lapidary Trim Saw	Hi-Tech Diamond 6″ Lapidary Trim Saw
Best Mini Trim Saw	Hi-Tech Diamond 4″/5″ Lapidary Trim Saw
Budget Option	Mini Table Jewelry Saw with Polishing Lathe
Other Worthy Mention	SKIL 3540-02 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw

Lapidary Saws Reviewed

Best Lapidary Slab Saw: Hi-Tech Diamond 10″ Lapidary Slab Saw

With a speed of 1,725rpm, the 1/3 hp motor is powerful enough to make large cuts with ease.

It comes complete with two 10″ blades but it’ll accept any 10″ blade that has a 5/8″ arbor. The 10-inch blade means that you can slab larger rocks and minerals up to 3-3/4″ high.

The green blade it comes with is a notched rim saw blade. This type of blade has diamond grit pressed into the edge of a solid steel core.

Basically, its thicker kerfs and sturdy core make it suitable for more heavy-duty lapidary cutting and you can slab agates, jades, and geodes, etc.

The Red blade uses sintered technology which means it has a longer life span compared to the notched rim saw blades. The reason for this is that the diamonds on a sintered blade always come into contact with the rock even as the blade wears away. Because it’s got a fine rim, this makes it more suitable for cutting and trimming rocks such as quartz, topaz, large pieces of glass, and fine agates.

Just to be clear, the lapidary saws I am comparing are suitable for jewelry making. If you want to cut anything larger, this guide is not for you, and you will need a bigger saw.

A coolant reservoir that holds 32-ounces of water keeps the blade constantly wet. The reservoir is conveniently located in the base of the machine. The blade sits in the water reservoir so it stays wet as it turns. It also captures and utilizes the excess water from the blade’s spray shield. We found clean-up to be an easy process too. The reservoir has a plug to drain the dirty water when you’re done.

Included with this model is a saw vise attachment (though there’s a cheaper option to buy one without). This keeps your hands well away from the blade. The vise grips and secures the rock or mineral for you while you manually feed it into the machine.

This American-made saw has an unbreakable, cross-linked polyethylene structure and the saw housing is rustproof and resistant to impact. It comes with a one-year manufacturer warranty.

What We Like:

• Powerful Enough to Make Large Cuts with Ease | It comes with a 10″ green, notched diamond saw blade for slabbing large rocks and minerals up to 3-3/4″ high and a 10″ red sintered diamond saw blade, for cutting large pieces of glass, topaz, quartz, and fine agates.
• Works with Either Water or Oil | Although water is easier to clean up you can use oil with this machine.
• Saw Vise Attachment Included | Though you can choose to buy this machine without a saw vise attachment, it’s not only a good safety feature, for some people it helps to make more precise cuts as it grips the rock firmly while you manually guide it through the machine.

Check the latest price for the Hi-Tech Diamond 10″ Lapidary Slab Saw on Amazon.

Best Lapidary Trim Saw: Hi-Tech Diamond 6″ Lapidary Trim Saw

It’s powerful too. It has a 1/4 HP motor which delivers a variable speed of between 800rpm and 3,400rpm depending on how fast you want it to go.

Like the 10-inch version, it comes with two saw blades for cutting different materials:

• A silver notched diamond saw blade for cutting rocks and minerals including turquoise, aqua, garnet, corundum, emerald, and ruby.
• A red sintered diamond saw blade designed to cut glass, topaz, quartz, and fine agates.

The coolant reservoir is similar to our previous choice and built into the base of the saw directly under the blade. It can hold up to 16 ounces of water and keeps the blade wet as it spins. The blade’s spray shield also serves to continually drip water onto the blade.

The saw table is removable and has an ample surface area of 15-1/2″ by 9″ wide.

The trim saw we have featured comes with a vise attachment. This is a valuable tool that keeps your hands away from the blade and helps to make precise cuts, though you can, if you prefer, buy a cheaper version with no vise attachment.

Either way, both saws come with an adjustable rip fence that clips into the saw table allowing you to accurately cut straight lines in stones or glass.

What We Like:

• Includes Two Saw Blades, Perfect for Trimming | This model comes with a silver notched diamond saw blade for cutting rocks and minerals and a red sintered diamond saw blade for cutting glass, topaz, quartz, and fine agates.
• Good Construction | It’s made from unbreakable, cross-linked polyethylene, and the saw housing is rustproof and resistant to impact.
• Works with Either Water or Oil | Again, although water is recommended for easier cleanup if you prefer to use oil you can do so with this machine.

Check the latest price for the Hi-Tech Diamond 6″ Lapidary Trim Saw on Amazon.

Best Mini Trim Saw: Hi-Tech Diamond 4″/5″ Lapidary Trim Saw

With the slim 4″ silver notched diamond saw blade you can cut rocks such as turquoise, aqua, garnet, corundum, emerald, and ruby to a maximum height of 1-inch very precisely with virtually no wastage. But there is also an additional 5-inch diamond blade included, allowing for a maximum cutting height of 1 1/2 inches.

The coolant reservoir holds 8 ounces of water and keeps the blade wet as it spins. This model also includes a spray shield that cuts down on mess and also helps to keep the blade wet by dripping water on it while the machine is running.

Though obviously the saw table area is smaller on this mini trim saw, you would only be using it to cut smaller material anyway and you still get a surface area of 7-1/2 inches by 4-3/4 inches to work with.

What We Like:

• Compact but Well-Made | It’s made from lightweight, rustproof, impact-resistant material. 
• Includes Two Fine Saw Blades in Different Sizes | The 4″ silver notched diamond saw blade cuts rock up to 1 inch in height and the 5″ blade can cut up to 11/2 inches. Additionally, the fine blades allow for more precise cuts with virtually no wastage.
• One-Year Warranty | All Hi-Tech Diamond Lapidary saws come with a one-year warranty.

Check the latest price for the Hi-Tech Diamond 4″/5″ Lapidary Trim Saw on Amazon.

Budget Option: Mini Table Jewelry Saw with Polishing Lathe

This multi-functional lapidary machine has a powerful motor of (just under) 1/2 horsepower and it comes with two blades that can cut and trim rocks as well as aluminum, chrome, precious metal, jade, wood, and plastic up to 30 mm (1.1811 inches) thick.

It comes with two mandrels that spin at between 0-10000 revolutions per minute and accommodate the included 4-1/4 inches buffing wheels, though it’s worth noting, it is also capable of taking buffer or grinding wheels up to 7-inches – you can even use two different grits at the same time.

Most notably, however, it comes with a highly useful, detachable and flexible, 42.5-inch multifunctional tool, suitable for a wide variety of projects or finely detailed work.

What We Like:

• Can Be Used as a Wet or Dry Sander | Depending on which is more suitable for the project you are working on.
• Angle adjustable Ruler | Its angle-adjustable ruler allows you to cut at precise angles with ease.
• Multifunctional Tool | This machine can cut, polish, grind, and carve – cutting down on the need for additional tools to complete a project.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This is a good little machine and very affordable but it’s Chinese made and so does lack comprehensive instructions. That means it may take a little practice and some trial and error to get the most out of it.

Check the latest price for the Mini Table Jewelry Saw with Polishing Lathe on Amazon.

Another Worthy Mention: SKIL 3540-02 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw

It features an adjustable rip fence with a miter gauge to allow for accurate straight or mitered cuts and it also has a bevel angle range of between 0-45 degrees.

Its stainless steel saw table is corrosion resistant and the saw blade is kept cool by the water reservoir that sits underneath the deck.

What We Like:

• Multi-Purpose Saw | This is a good option for those who would prefer a general use wet tile saw that’s suitable for a range of tile cutting or other DIY projects but that can be adapted to cut rocks for jewelry making, etc.

Check the latest price for the SKIL 3540-02 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw on Amazon.

Other Lapidary Saws to Consider:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good, so you might like to take a look: